Monkey business: Luhya's secret primate delicacy now faces Mpox dilemma

A Colobus monkey enjoying the indigenous forest at the Brackenhurst. [George Njunge, Standard]

For many, monkeys are seen as mischievous, destructive creatures, notorious for wreaking havoc on crops and often becoming targets of hunting. Yet, among the Isukha, Idakho, and Tiriki sub-tribes of the Luhya community in Kakamega and Vihiga Counties, the story takes an unexpected turn—monkeys are prized not for their antics, but as a hidden delicacy.

The Isukha and Idakho tribes, living in Shinyalu, Ikolomani, and Malava constituencies in Kakamega County, and the Tiriki tribe in Vihiga County, savour the taste of monkey meat, an age-old cultural tradition. However, the rise of Monkeypox (Mpox) has cast a shadow over this practice. Now, the once-secret indulgence is at a crossroads, as communities weigh the risks and consider whether to pause eating bushmeat until the health threat subsides.

The Kakamega tropical forest is home to many monkey species spread across Shinyalu, Ikolomani, Malava, and Hamisi in Vihiga County, giving the community a golden opportunity to hunt the animals for food.

As the government heightens Mpox surveillance— with the Ministry of Health implementing measures to prevent the spread of the disease, and the Ministry of Tourism urging Kenyans to avoid handling or consuming bushmeat to mitigate risks—residents in Shinyalu, where the practice is widespread, say the advent of Mpox has complicated the menu for many.

They say they are now forced to balance between the popular delicacy and their health, with some arguing that the meat is medicinal and that nothing will stop them from consuming it.

Boniface Kateka, a resident of Shinyalu, says the community has been eating monkeys for the past 100 years, and bushmeat has become part of their culture.

“I was born 45 years ago, and I found my grandfather and father hunting monkeys and eating their meat. That has been part of our cultural practices, and it is a top secret because even the Kenya Wildlife Service or Kenya Forest Service are not aware. Most of these monkeys escape from the forest to our homes. We rarely enter the forest,” said Kateka.

Kateka explained that not all monkeys are eaten, but a specific kind. He stated that they hunt and consume the meat of brown and white or black and white colobus monkeys, claiming that other types of monkeys are poisonous.

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“We eat baboons, but not all baboons are safe. We eat the meat of baboons with brownish and whitish fur or black and white fur, which has been recommended for consumption since ancient times,” argues Kateka.

Kateka says the meat has numerous health benefits, making it the best among other types of meat.

Boosting Immunity

“Our grandfathers and fathers lived for many years because of monkey meat. My grandfather lived to 110 years old from eating this meat, as it increases one’s lifespan. This meat helps prevent common ailments because monkeys eat crops and medicinal wild foods, boosting a person’s immunity,” said Kateka.

He explained that the brown and white monkey avoids destroying crops, and there is a specific method of preparing the meat before consumption.

“Our grandfathers and fathers taught us that the meat should be roasted and dried in the sun for three days before it is eaten to remove any toxins, but more importantly, to add flavour,” Kateka added.

“We do not eat the meat of a black monkey because it is poisonous. Its meat is black, but the meat of the brown and white monkey is red and suitable for consumption,” Kateka elaborated.

As in many parts of the country, people play cat-and-mouse games with troublesome monkeys. Kateka says this can be a blessing in disguise for the community.

“We have black monkeys that destroy crops, and people often kill them but don’t eat them. However, when we see the brown and white or black and white monkeys, which rarely destroy crops, we know they are a delicacy, and we hunt them,” said Kateka.

However, as the Luhya community is known for being strict with cultural practices, pregnant women are not allowed to eat meat. Only older women are permitted to enjoy this delicacy.

“Not all people in our sub-tribe and the larger Luhya community eat monkey meat. Young women are not allowed, as it might affect pregnancy because it contains many medicinal herbs from the wild. The meat is mostly eaten by elders, not everyone, as it has special properties,” said James Khasala.

Even as the country battles Mpox, some residents believe the community should suspend eating monkey meat until the disease is contained, while others insist that the meat is medicinal and should be consumed to protect against certain illnesses.

“We have been eating these monkeys, and they have protected us from many ailments. If we stop, we are exposing ourselves to health risks, so I will continue eating it,” said Khasala.

“We will continue eating what we are used to. Let our people hunt the right monkey because even during the COVID-19 pandemic, we ate monkey meat, and no one died,” he added.

Peter Liyayi, however, agrees with the Ministry of Tourism’s advice that residents living near forests should refrain from eating bushmeat until Mpox is contained.

“I urge our people to suspend eating monkey meat until Mpox is contained because we are told it is transmitted from animals to humans. The monkeys will still be here in the future, so we can resume eating them once the threat is over,” said Liyayi.

Liyayi acknowledged the benefits of eating brown and white, or black and white monkeys, saying their meat is unmatched.

“We want the Kenya Wildlife Service and Kenya Forest Service to work closely with residents to ensure that while people may eat monkeys, the species should also be protected to avoid endangerment,” said Liyayi.

In the past few months, women in the Western region have expressed concern about aggressive and cheeky monkeys harassing them in Shitirira village, Malava constituency, Kakamega County, and Nasewa in Matayos constituency, Busia County. They say monkeys fear men, who hunt and eat certain species but harass women.

In the Malava forest and near River Sio in Matayos, monkeys reportedly fear men but confront women, especially those wearing skirts or dresses.

Women have resorted to wearing trousers to drive the monkeys from their farms, as they do not respect anyone in a skirt or dress.

“We are worried because these monkeys are attacking and harassing women or anyone dressed in skirts. Some of us aren’t allowed to eat monkeys in certain communities, but men do, and that is why the monkeys fear them,” said Jane Mudoli, a resident of Nasewa in Matayos.

Mudoli added that the monkeys are so bold that they attempt to undress women.

“They have destroyed our crops, and we are counting heavy losses. We urge the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) to intervene,” she said.