African hair is difficult to flat iron because it is course and tends to be more porous, making it more susceptible to heat damage. However, it is easy to get a flat iron styling from the comfort of your home. When it doesn't happen right, you may be using the wrong technique.
Using proper straightening technique and applying appropriate hair treatments before and after flat ironing will keep your hair straight throughout. These steps are the best guide:
Clean: Your hair is at its best for flat ironing immediately following a fresh shampoo and conditioning session. Applying heat to dirty hair is equivalent to baking old products and dirt in. If you must flat iron in between the week, do so with minimal heat.
Condition: Ensure your hair is well-conditioned and moisturised on a regular basis before you flat iron. This way, your hair will be in a condition able to handle it without damaging it. Applying heat to hair that is dry and brittle will only damage it. Use shampooing and conditioning products specially formulated to create straight hair.
Serum: Once you shampoo and condition the hair, apply some serum or a smoothing balm to it. This is more beneficial if the hair is natural. Apply the serum when your hair is wet so that it spreads evenly around the hair without creating clumps. Comb the hair with a wide-toothed comb after applying.
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Heat protectant: Apply a heat protectant to each section of hair once it is dry. As much as a heat protectant helps, avoid using too much heat as even the best brand won't hold up that heat. Stick to the minimum temperature.
Avoid oil: Do not apply oil on your hair before you flat iron it- do so later. When you oil before ironing you don't get that lightweight, bouncy look you are seeking.
Dry hair: Never flat iron wet hair. For the best, long-lasting results, do so when the hair is completely dry. You don't have to blow dry the hair straight first. You can always under a dryer- this is a gentler drying method. You could also let your hair air dry. Flat ironing wet or semi-wet hair causes it to frizz up.
Be gentle: Go slow and steady as you flat iron. Never do it in a hurry. This technique requires slow, controlled movement. Ensure the iron does not sit in one place for any length of time. Move it gently. Begin as close to the roots as possible then pull the iron down in a smooth motion. Hurrying through it means you may have to go over that section over and over. The less heat, the better.
Temperature: Adjust it as needed. Different parts of the hair require different heat temperatures. For natural hair, the crown area of the head is the curliest section, thus requires higher heat. The hair on the sides may be straighter, thus requires lower heat.
Section the hair: Iron small sections. The number of sections will depend on the thickness of your hair. Smaller flat irons are better for this. Press pieces that are not wider than one inch at a time; this is easier when you don't have to deal with too much hair that don't straighten properly.
Wrap: Once you are done with flat ironing, apply a hair spray or a setting spray to keep the hair straight all day. Wrap your hair at night to avoid ruining your hard work. Use a silk or satin scarf. This way, you only have to take your hair down and comb through it in the morning.