Rocky ambience at Kenya’s best kept secret

By Millicent Muthoni

The October sun is blazing at midday. It gives a wet heat, the kind that promises rain. There are no visible animals in the park but for the ubiquitous zebra and the occasional traipsing impala. We come to a spot near the Ura River which is loud and rhythmic. A herd of elephants has left its footprint nearby. The vehicle skid marks at the spot cause us to shiver.

On approach, it is difficult to see why Elsa’s Kopje (Afrikaans for hillock) has won the prestigious International Property Awards, 2008, in the category of Best Development in Kenya. That is because there is no building in sight, just a mountain of rocks. Huge, craggy overgrown rocks.

Set on Mughwango Hill in Meru National Park, Elsa’s Kopje is named after Elsa the lioness, made famous by George and Joy Adamson’s biographical film Born Free. Elsa’s Kopje manages to hide on the hill. Its hushed existence is what earned it the award. It does not disturb nature but blends into it.

"Lunch?" A feminine voice called.

"Yes, we are here for lunch," we reply, leaving Flick Woodhouse, the manager puzzled.

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"Did you call to book?" she asks.

Chilling out on Moroccan style cushions

Wild with rocks

"We use only natural fertilizers and encourage walking," Taylor continued. "Water comes from a borehole. The park is not fenced so animals may wander in and out of the lodge. At night, we advise the guests to carry flashlights."

In building the lodge, no tree was destroyed. Like the rocks, trees were incorporated into the design of individual cottages. The park itself is unadulterated. In our 25km drive from the Murera gate, we only saw one other vehicle.

The animals are not habituated to people and so the lodge offers an authentic wildlife experience. Regular sightings include the beisa oryx, gerenuk, elephant, grevy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe, lesser kudu, grant’s gazelle, leopard, lion, cheetah, rhino and the rare, elusive greater kudu.

Meru is famous for its birdlife with over 300 riverine, forest and arid dry country species.

Elsa Kopje’s grounds are fascinating and statuesque. Much of it is left wild with rocks and vegetation, with the paths rising and falling through the landscape. A curious highlight is the numerous lizards and geckos, like the red-headed Agama, that reside in the cracks. They slither out to bask on the rocks when the sun gets out.

Sweltering in the heat, we ease ourselves into the elegant infinity pool that is carved into a large rock. Its lip touches the edge of the cliff and offers a beguiling view of the Meru plains below. We cannot resist the allure of the pool’s edge.