All you have to know about holidaying in Kajiado county

Leruat Log Resort, Kajiado [Courtesy]

One of the greatest challenges for most dwellers of the capital is finding a close yet uncommon destination where they can exhale for a night or two away from the madness of the city. 

While most people would opt for Naivasha and her sister Nakuru, few ever give thought to the space that is Kajiado County. 

Unknown to most, the striking topography, beautiful wildlife and the hosts’ enduring culture makes this a gem worth exploring.

Derived from a Masaai word Olkejuado meaning along river, Kajiado is approximately 80 km from Nairobi, just a one and a half-hour drive from Nairobi. It is a fact that the best nyama choma is in Kajiado County and this easy access makes it the perfect destination to enjoy Kenya’s favourite dish.

What started as a mission to sample the best nyama choma joints in Kajiado ended up being an immersion into an experience every Kenyan should attempt at least once. But how to get the best out of the eighth largest county covering an area of 21,292.7 km² was an experiment in itself.

Getting there

Located at the southern tip of the former Rift valley province, Kajiado is bordered by Tanzania to the southwest; to the south-east, county of Taita Taveta; to the eastern side it is bordered by Machakos County; to the northeast is Nairobi County; to the north is Kiambu County, and to the west is Narok County.

Depending on what part of Kajiado you are aiming for, you have the option of either driving, flying. Look out for the Jaza Train project, where visitors can enjoy a fun train ride from Kajiado to Magadi.

Using rudimentary methods we carved the county into sections guided by trading centres where accommodation would be easily accessible. Our self-drive journey took us to Oloitokitok through Emali and Kimana; Namanga through Amboseli National Park; Ngong through the Maili 46 and Magadi track in a four-day-long journey.

Culture trove

Our first stab was Kitengela to honour an appointment with Mzee Samuel Koisamy who our contact promised was the most skilled and trusted in the preparation of what I now reckon is the county’s next best export yet-herbal soup. 

Kajiado's people are predominantly from the Maasai community [Standard]

You might be wondering why we started with this stop. Well, it turns out that the Maasai herbal soup does not only have medicinal properties but it would ready our systems for the journey ahead. This was advised by the Orpul custom among the Maasai of Kajiado. 

Orpul is fundamentally a retreat and wellness convention held every July. Here Maasai men of all lifestyles camp out in select bushes for a month-long bonding sessions surviving only on copious amounts of the herbal refreshment and meat. 

It was interesting to learn that the Maasai, according to Mzee Koisamy, do not categorise meat not like the English do (white and red meat). The Maasai consider beef as brown meat, mutton to be red meat, and chevon as white meat. Animal parts are also reserved for various sexes and age groups. Goat liver, for instance, is reserved for males while cow liver is predominantly consumed by women.

Herbal soup

You must have encountered traders, predominantly men, of Maasai extraction hawking herbal medicine in the city. Well, our host insists that to be sure that the ingredients are true, it is best that one visit a trusted vendor and witness the actual preparation. This is because the indigenous tree parts used in the concoction are not only available periodically from specific forests throughout the year, but also require a skilled extractor. 

As we savoured the incongruously tasting dawa, I could not help but admire the obvious harmony among residents whom we shared the meal with. Without prodding, neighbours and the odd passersby joined in the chores that involved manning the fire and spurtle. 

The Maasai believe that the soup has medicinal properties [Standard]

Fortune and grief are evidently shared among the Maasai and this would be put on the best display when we attended an Orngesherr (junior's elder initiation) ceremony that marks the status of a junior elder. Never before had I encountered such an elaborate ceremony performed in a selected camp (Emanyatta) that contained an outstanding 129 specially created houses.

Away from culture, Kajiado has this to offer to the discerning traveller:

•  Rolfs Place 

Situated on Masai Lodge Road, off Magadi Road, this property built renowned author and chef, the late Rolf Rainer Schmidt, a renowned film actor, is only 25 minutes from the city. You cannot wish for better scenic views than from this spot perched on the edge of a cliff and boasting a swinging bridge over a deep gorge separating it from the National Park. Make your reservations beforehand to avoid disappointment.

• The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust

The first stop for every celebrity worth their salt is this orphanage that rescues and rehabilitates orphan elephants. No reason why you shouldn’t be a part of this royal party. The centre is open to the public each morning from 11 am -12 pm.

•  Kitengela Glass Art environment

This magical place will amaze you with the elegant sculptures created from recycled glass as well as scrap.  Other activities that you can engage in here include camel and horse riding, swimming, as well as mosaic classes.

Kitengela Glass Art environment [Courtesy]

• Olorgesailie pre-historic site

Situated along Magadi road, only 70kms away from Nairobi, Olorgesailie is the only place in the world with the largest number of stone tools which represent the actual camping places of the early man. 

Excavations of the sites began in the year 1942 in this lake basin that is believed to have existed about 100,000 to 200, 000 years ago. One can take a walk and check out the prehistoric site, do bird watching, and also camp.

•  Lake Magadi

Lake Magadi is an amazingly unique and serene destination for nature lovers, bird lovers and adventure camping tourists. This southernmost lake in the Kenyan Rift Valley lies in a catchment of faulted volcanic rocks, north of Tanzania's Lake Natron. 

Lake Magadi [Expat Mummy, Standard]

During the dry season, it is 80 per cent covered by soda and is well known for its wading birds, including flamingos. The area also boasts a hot spring which is said to have curative powers for various skin ailments.

• Naibor Mus (Jackals' paradise)

If you are keen on a moderate hike with a view then this is the challenge for you. This public rock located within Mailua Group Ranch in Kajiado Central provides the perfect spot to take in the expansive Amboseli ecosystem.

One can also catch a glimpse of Mt Kilimanjaro and the Oldonyo Orok hills of Namanga. 

According to the locals, this ever-green location was a favourite lair for jackals, hyenas, wild dogs and occasionally, the shy leopard. The wild animals are no longer a common feature, leaving the place safe for exploration. Moran guides are, however, available for the cautious. 

• Amboseli national park

Also referred to as the Home of the African Elephant, the Amboseli is one of the most popular parks in Kenya. It comes from a Masaai word meaning salty dust and its one of the few places where one can closely view large herds of elephants.

Standing on the observation hill will enable you to have a glimpse of the entire park and also the elephants as well as the swamps.

Amboseli National Park [Herbert Aust, Pixabay]

The western section is dominated by vast Lake Amboseli, which is dry outside the rainy season. 

Nature lovers can explore five different habitats here ranging from the dried-up bed of Lake Amboseli, wetlands with sulphur springs, the savannah and woodlands. They can also visit the local Maasai community who live around the park and experience their authentic culture. 

According to the Executive Director and Board Secretary of Amboseli Ecosystem Trust, the Amboseli ecosystem comprises of 1.5 million hectares. Of note is that only 392 000 sq km makes up the park. 

The marsh and the saltlick, where the park sits, is the lifeline during the dry season but when it rains the animals spend most of their time in the community land.

This, in essence, means that the community and conservancy lands (17 conservancies and seven main community group ranches) account for about 80 per cent wildlife.

• The Paradise Gallery

This is perhaps one of the best-stocked gallery for wood carvings in Kajiado County and also serves as a marker of your arrival to the border town of Namanga. The gallery that has been in existence for fifteen years is also a convergence point for hikers to the nearby Oldonyo Orok Hills.

Located 175 km south of Nairobi, a stone over here indicates to the traveller that 60 per cent of the journey to Arusha which is only 112 kilometres away has been covered. Apart from the carvings, the gallery offers free clean washrooms and a resting place as you get served with African cuisine that transcends both Kenyan and Tanzanian cultures.

• Hike -  Ngong Hills

A popular weekend destination for most city folk yearning for fresh air is Ngong Hills located approximately 22 km south-west of the city. It’s popular for hikes, zip-lining, archery, bike riding, and picnicking.

The whole mountain range is a gazetted forest that covers 21, 000 sq km and is accessible via public means. For those hiking, it is advisable to request an escort at the Kenya Forest Service after paying the Sh200 charge.

• Champagne Park

A few times in a year, Champagne Park in Kipeto, Kajiado County hosts the 4x4 off-road challenge. The park is a 100-acre property in Kipeto, Kajiado County, about 18km from Kona Baridi (Kiserian). It features a 2.5km track, 4×4 obstacles, and picnic, camping and events grounds.

This event allows both experts and beginners to take part in various obstacles that allow them to develop their technical skills and gain knowledge of their vehicles. Anyone with a standard 4×4 and off-road experience can take part in the competition.

Entry is possible for each leg separately or for the entire season with top performers in each category being awarded. This event, of course, makes for a great day out for the family or with a group of friends. 

Talking of car competitions, Kajiado’s bewildering terrain makes it a favourite venue for the Rhino Charge and the Kenya National Rally Championship (KNRC) series.

• Nyama Choma Tour

Kitengela and Rongai towns boast the most dynamic nightlife in Kajiado County but the succulent meat that Kenyans cannot get enough of what’s available in all corners.

We created this tried and tested list to guide you:

1. Arusha Meat Den-Kitengela.
2. Enlarge Grill-Kitengela.
3. Club 034-Kitengela.
4. Nasinya Grill-Korompoi.
5. Kibz Butchery-Kiserian.
6. Starehe Butchery-Rongai.
7. The Ofis-Ngong Town.
8. Rehebouth-Kajiado Town.
9. Texas Choma Zone-Kajiado Town.
10. Maparasha bitchery-Ilbissil.

Benefits of the Maasai herbal soup

1. Orkokola - bone cure and cure for some STD’s.
2. Olalutu - Appetite stimulant.
3. Entipilikua - Painkiller
4. Oltimigomi - Breastmilk and energy booster for convalescents.
5. Olodo-nganatioi - Red blood cells booster.
6. Enkaluto - High spirits.
7. Orkonyil - Libido booster.
8. Orperengo-Adds taste to the concoction.
9. Enkike empaus - Blood pressure reliever and womb cleaner after miscarriage.
10. Oloilalei - Breast milk booster and porridge additive.
11. Oremit (prepared separately) - Cures extreme gonorrhoea.
12. Enchani enkashe - Bitters that lift one’s spirits.
13. Iseketek - clears worms, erectile dysfunction and improves libido.