Top attractions in Turkana

If ever there are trips every Kenyan should take, then it has to be expeditions to the extreme points of the country. That means reaching Kalukwakerith Mountain to the north in Turkana county, the trip-point with Ethiopia and Somalia in Mandera county that marks the most eastern point; the most Southernmost point where the border with Tanzania, enters the Indian Ocean, in Kwale county, and Pyramid Island west of Port Victoria, Busia county that marks the Westernmost point of Kenya. 

To make it count, all the expeditions have to be done by road.

I have always been envious of the accounts by people who braved the rough road terrain to the northern point of our country. This is because while I have tales of trips to Turkana, they all seemed to begin and end at Wilson and Lodwar airstrips. The road to Lodwar is being paved and it seemed that I would never really ‘journey’ to the north, touted by many as the true cradle of mankind.

Careful about what you wish for just came to roost recently when the country’s tourism marketing board came calling with a dreamy proposition. ‘Your mission should you accept is to embark on a six-day road trip to Eastern Turkana to document some of its hidden treasures’.

Sadly, for most of the world, the term Turkana is synonymous with armed conflict mostly over pasture, searing heat, hunger, famine, bare-chested women, war, being the host of Kakuma-one of Africa’s largest refugee camp amongst other adversities.

Getting there

Travel to Lodwar is way easier compared to a decade ago. Flights run by four airlines are regular and average Sh12, 000, which is a  welcome relief for those not keen to brave the 678km-long road journey from the capital.

The team wades into Lake Turkana to get to the boat [Wilberforce Okwiri, Standard]

Should you prefer the exploratory opt, then good cheer and decent tires on a 4x4 auto should suffice. Those electing public transport can board Kitale SACCO or North-Rift SACCO shuttles, both 11-seater vehicles found along Mfangano Lane, Nairobi, or the Easy Coach buses destined for Kitale whose fare averages Sh1, 000.

While there are buses that ply the Kitale Lodwar route, I highly recommend that the traveller book the 4x4 double-cab pick-up taxis that charge Sh2, 500 travelling overnight. 

Be warned, while the first part of the journey is stress-free, the latter part of the journey whose driving distance is 300 km is toughest due to a pitiable road especially between Marich Pass and Kainuk.

The latter town might also self-drivers to have armoured escort to rebuff the occasional bandit encounter. 

My journey had two ‘long’ landrovers snake out of the capital with pitstops in Nakuru, Eldoret and Kitale for toilet, lunch and an overnight stop respectively. I noted that accommodation in Kitale is rather pricey so account for this. The fish served at Mid-Africa Hotel where we put up is a necessary try.

Our long land cruiser got stuck in the sand dunes [Shammer Agila]

Top things to do in Turkana

Turkana has at least 52 magical touristic sites but because of the expansive terrain but we could only manage a few in our week-long tour.

Lodwar Town

Lodwar as you might know is the capital and by far the biggest settlement of Turkana County. It traces its roots to Shah Mohamed a trader who put up a trading centre along the banks of the Turkwell River.  In the last five years, the fortunes of the town with a thick Catholic influence have seemingly changed for the better. Pundits attribute this to the discovery of the Lotikipi Basin Aquifer System holding some 250 billion cubic metres of water, sinking of oil wells in Lokichar some 88kms away, odd gold finds, and the implementation of devolution.

Just like Christ the Redeemer statue dominates the Rio de Janeiro skyline, a similar 30-metre statue on the tallest hill close the airport is a sight to behold. Erected by the catholic missionary.

While here make sure you visit the weaving market for souvenirs, Tobong lore stadium (check dates for annual cultural festival hosted here), and the house where President Kenyatta was held on house arrest. When the sun sets, check out the town’s nightlife and try to keep up with the hard-partying locals.

Christ the Redeemer statue overlooks Lodwar town [Wilberforce Okwiri, Standard]

Turkana Boy

Turkana (Nariokotome village) claims bragging rights as the exact region where fossil hunter Kamoya Kimeu excavated the nearly complete skeleton of a Homo erectus boy in Turkana, which is euphorically termed as the missing link in the chain of species leading from the joint ancestors of apes and humans to modern man.

The journey to Nariokotome from Lodwar is a day-long, no frills expedition that calls for proper stocking of water. En route, we had a welcome pit stop at the Namoratunga pillar site with odd-looking upright rocks imitating a human’s upright stance. “Namoratunga” in Turkana language describes any standing stone site and this particular site is dated around 5, 000 years old.

‘Sleeping’ next to Turkana boy [Wilberforce Okwiri, Standard]

Our guide explained that several theories explain the miniature Stonehenge. One theory is that the stones were aligned with the positions of important stars in Eastern Cushitic astronomy and were used to determine the dates of ritual ceremonies.

Some people call them “dancing stones”, following a legend that told of a tribe dancing on the site, who were turned to stone by the ridicule of a group of new arrivals, the Turkana.

More plausible reasons for their existence might be the concentration of haematite and copper ore around the site, the smelting of which (for making weapons) has historically had ritual significance.

The first hour before branching of at Kalokol fish-landing bay was rather relaxed. Kalokol by the way is the last opportunity to stock up on supplies. It runs on private generators even as the county government has put up solar-powered street lights.

While the road is manageable from this point, the rest of the journey is a test of patience braving scorching sun broken by hints of the Lake Turkana’s shoreline that is longer than the whole of Kenya’s sea coast. 

At midday, we received our reward arriving at the hallowed spot where Kamoya Kimeu, a researcher of Dr Richard Leakey’s scientific team detected the world famous Turkana Boy fossil in 1984. Keys to the fenced site are in the custody of the family on whose land the remains were unearthed.

The patriarch in fact witnessed the epic find. Established in 2014, the monumental pillar and a brass replica of the Turkana Boy (authentic remains housed in a safe at Nairobi National Museum) is the perfect ‘selfie’ opportunity-a reward for braving scorching sun.

Little Spain

Catholic mission station nick-named Little Spain. There we were welcomed and got to learn how the mission has been a sole ray of hope in the region since before independence carrying out various developmental projects in the line of provision and securing the basic needs to the community.

Most, if not all, of the region’s elite owe their present susses to this mission. The missionaries are experimenting with growing dates, olives, wine and, yes even coconuts! You can divert from the main road to pay the beautiful church of the mission a visit. Behind the altar opens a window permitting to view the lake.

Eliye Springs, Rolfs Place, Central Island

Eliye Springs like Long'ech Beach also boasts palm fringed sand beaches. Back in the 70’s, it enjoyed astonishing popularity with the international jet set who flew in from Nairobi with private planes to spend a weekend angling on the lake and partying on the beach.

With its fresh water spring, very laid-back atmosphere, and a massive sand dune from which you enjoy a panoramic view of Lake Turkana, it is easy why. Central Island is your choice. Ready your bargaining hat if you are to hire a boat at a good rate.

Our choice was the five sq. km. Central desert island jutting 355 meters above sea level out of the jade waters of Lake Turkana some nine kilometres away. The Island is a national park and requires a Kenya Wildlife Service permit to access.

A speed - boat docked on shores of Central Island [Wilberforce Okwiri, Standard]

Being of volcanic origin, this UNESCO World Heritage site hosts three crater lakes, one being home for tilapia fish, another one for thousands of flamingos and the third one the world’s largest Nile Crocodile nursery. We explored the island on foot, taking only about one hour to climb the highest point from where we enjoyed unrivalled vistas over Lake Turkana. If equipped with a tent you may also stay overnight at Chooro Campsite, which will give you the chance to watch the changing colours of marvellous sunrises and sunsets, and the glittering of myriads of stars.

Away from the spectacular islands plan for trips to the Omo delta, Kobi Fora, Sibiloi National park, Nabuyatom, and the southern part of the lake among others.

Archeological tours

Sibiloi and Koobi Fora lie on the northeastern shores of Lake Turkana within Sibiloi National Park. The exploration of the ‘Cradle of Mankind’ hidden within the park is enhanced with glimpses of the wild animals in this surreal terrain. 

The fossil rich prehistoric sites discovered by renowned  archaeologist Dr Richard Leakey who collected over 160 fossil specimens within Koobi Fora locality in the first 10 years subsequently leading to the establishment of Koobi Fora Research station and museum. Specimens of Hominid Australopithecines limb bones, skulls, jaw bones and teeth dating from 3.5 to less than one  million years have been recovered, alongside the more related human Homo erectus bones found in the younger earth tufts.

Literally opposite Koobi Fora on the western shore of Lake Turkana a complete skeleton of a Homo erectus namely ‘The Turkana Boy’ dated about 1.6 million years old was unearthed. Expeditions to Koobi Fora and its locality which lie within Sibiloi National Park on the eastern shores of Lake Turkana can done by road, boat or air.

Sport Fishing

For the sport-fishing enthusiasts, Lobolo and Rolf’s Camp organise half or full day fishing expeditions across the lake Turkana. Spend an afternoon on the fishing boat and bring back the catch of the day for dinner. This is an active, fun and exciting way to enjoy the great outdoors setting of Lake Turkana. The most commonly caught fish are the Nile Perch, Tiger fish and Tilapia. Aside of the main catch of the day, most of the fish caught are returned to the lake.

Image [Wilberforce Okwiri, Standard]

Cultural Expeditions

Other than its unique geological features the Turkana region is culturally rich as it is inhabited by various different tribes, including the Turkana, Pokot, the Dassanech and the Gabra. Make sure you experience these rich cultures. 

Where to stay

Stegra Hotel: This option located on the Lodwar- Kitale Road in Lodwar has been in operation since 2015. It promises 74 beautifully furnished and spacious rooms. The rooms are en-suite and fitted with a TV, power sockets, mosquito nets, A/C, Wi-Fi, luxurious beds and spacious cabinets. Their pool is a must dip.

Cradle Tented Camp and Lodge: Set on 16 acres, this 15 canvas en-suite accommodation named after prominent geographical features of the area is up to snuff complete with minibars, satellite television and air-conditioning. If tented accommodation is not your thing, you can opt for their recently completed chic stone suites. Each of these suites comes with a different bed and bathroom area design with some even boasting luxurious frills like jacuzzis.

Lobolo Camp: Midway along the western shore of Lake Turkana sheltered in the hollow of a spit lies Lobolo, which in the local Turkana language means a place of abundant water. Lobolo Camp nestled among 100 acres of lush forest, watered by a series of fresh water springs opened in August 2013, becoming the first luxury permanent complex for holiday retreats in the coast of Lake Turkana.

The camp is comprised of eight luxury ensuite tents, which can accommodate up to 16 people simultaneously. All the tents at Lobolo Camp have been built facing the lake, offering a panoramic view of the beach, Lake Turkana, and Central Island. The camp is run by Joyce Chianda who pioneered the setup of operations and safaris in these unique and challenging ecosystems back in the 80’s.