Discover the Aberdares

A KWS helicopter hovering over an elephant at the Aberdare National Park [Harun Wathari, Standard]

The Aberdare holds a special historical place – not just for Kenyans but for the Commonwealth. It is here that the princess of the most famous royal family in the world had a picnic and spent the night in a cave covered with a curtain of falling water. That was none other than Princess Elizabeth in 1952, two days before the young monarch’s father died, and she ascended to the British royal throne while at The Treetops, several miles from her picnic spot at Magura Waterfalls. Ironically, it is in these same ranges that the climax of a fierce freedom war from British colonial rule was staged.

This account is enough to make any history buff and hopeless romantic make a beeline for the Aberdare ranges. And that’s exactly what we sought to do!

Our guide from Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) quips: “If you haven’t camped at Aberdare, then you have not been to the Aberdares.”

“How was it for Princess Elizabeth camping at Magura Waterfalls cave?” I ask the guide, who introduced himself as Ezra. 

“I'll tell you when we get to Magura.”

Aberdare has several campsites, but the most famous one is at Magura. 

Waterfalls, here we come

The Aberdare Range is divided into the southern, northern and salient sectors, and central moorlands. The waterfalls are found in the moorlands while the rhino sanctuary is in the salient sector. 

From the road leading to the Aberdare National Park, the air gets clearer and cleaner as the altitude increases. As we drive up the moorlands, the vegetation also starts changing, giving rise to bamboo and rosewood trees, which are able to withstand the cold weather of the moorlands. 

At about 3,000 above sea level, we see the moorlands. 

“Fencing is complete, and this has immensely helped in conservation efforts,” Ezra informs us. 

About 40 minutes later, we reach the diversion to Karuru Waterfalls – the deepest waterfall in East Africa.

We break for lunch, and have to decide whether to trek to Karuru, some seven kilometres, to and fro, or change our plans. The skies are downcast – the weather here is capricious. It seems like the clouds will let up and rain on our parade.

Karuru’s first step is 117 metres, its second step is 26 metres, while its third one is 130 metres. 

We decide to give Karuru a rain check and, instead, go to Magura and Chania. 

The moorlands can sometimes hit you with extremes. There is a stark contrast between the dead silence in the other areas of the moorlands and the roaring decibels of the waterfalls.

But the waterfalls aren’t the only attractions. Along the way, we pass a herd of buffaloes lounging on a patch of grass. Several minutes later, a cackle of hyenas stands for a moment on the road, before they cross and let us pass. 

“What was that all about?” someone asks. 

“It’s the law of the jungle,” Ezra replies. “The animals have the right of way... and they know it.”

For nature photographers, the Aberdare offers the whole shebang. From the waterfalls in the distance, the picturesque sunrises and sunsets, to the moorlands, and bird watching – the park has over 250 bird species – you will be spoilt for choice. 

Save some space on your memory card for Chania and Magura waterfalls, plus other surprises like wild animals which seem to spring up out of nowhere. But to see these animals, you’ll need the trained eyes of people like Ezra, who can spot and name a green snake in the grass, metres away. You might also have rare sightings of golden cats, African wild cats and several cats. 

Chania is a single waterfall. But don’t let the term “single” fool you. Chania has almost 50 metres of water, and tens of metric tons, cascading down to its pool. It is so powerful that, while you are still on the pathway leading to its ramp tens of feet from its base, you will be hit by sprays of cold drops of water. 

There is a picnic table and shed at the top of Chania. On this scenic spot, you can grab a bite to eat as you take in the million dollar sight of the cascading waterfalls. 

Don’t forget to carry some snacks. But don’t litter the area. If you must leave anything behind, let it be your footprints. If have your fishing gear and license, you can do some trout fishing at Chania or one of the many rivers that snake through the Aberdare.

If you are too tired or your limbs are sore to make the to-and-fro trip, you can view Chania Falls from the pathway that leads to the downward winding path. Watch your steps as walk up and down these narrow paths. A slip will spoil your holiday. 

Recap of Princess Elizabeth’s night at Magura cave

The year is 1952. Kenya is at the height of her independence struggle.

Ezra gives me a recap of that night. There are no cell phones and no fancy trappings of power and privileges. What the Princess has are numerous handlers and a retinue of armed guards to protect her. The handlers can’t take chances. And yet, by the mere fact that they are smack in the middle of the most dangerous area in the British Protectorate, they are taking the biggest risk that any British royalty has ever taken.

They are all aware that, if the freedom fighters get wind that the Princess is in their hood, they would do anything to capture her. Hijacking the heiress to the British royal throne would be the biggest bargaining chip. 

Princess Elizabeth’s handlers are also aware that back home in London, King George VI is gravely ill. Should anything untoward happen to his daughter, it would surely be the end of his life, and most assuredly, theirs. 

Magura, is a two-in-one waterfall, approximately 20 feet whose source is Magura River. The waterfall is framed by yellow-flowered lobelia trees that grow down the sides of falls, and seem to cling on the rocks for dear life. White frothy water roar and hit the pool with enormous force to power the national grid. 

Because of the cold temperatures, moss, which resemble grey stringy beards, grow on the rocks, all around the pool.

“What was the Princess’ dinner?” I ask Ezra.

“Raw excitement.”

“And what did her handlers eat?”

“Marinated trepidation.”

With the roaring sound of the waterfall, perhaps the Princess didn’t get some shuteye. Or perhaps she slept like a baby. 

Freedom fighters and wild animals aren’t the only things to be afraid of in this part of the Aberdares.

“This pool is very deep and cold,” Ezra says. “There was a time a child drowned in this pool, and we had to call in professional divers to retrieve the body.”

That must have been the coldest longest night in the lives of the Princess’ handlers, as they had to have their blinkers peeled.  

“You know what her handlers had for breakfast?” Ezra asks. 

I shake my head. 

“Hefty servings, and second helpings, of relief.”

Monkey games

After you’ve feasted your blinkers on scenic waterfalls, moorlands and historic spots, swing by the Aberdare Country Club for rounds of food and drinks and, if you’re up for it, a round of golf. This is the only hotel in a country that has a golf course where you can play the gentleman’s game in the wild. 

Imagine this. You tee off and self-appointed “caddies” grab your golf ball and take off. Other “golfers” laugh derisively at your golfing skills and cheer the caddies. Meanwhile, horned golfers browse nearby and pay you scant attention. A kingfisher is standing on the flag, which denotes where a hole is located on the green. 

The caddies are baboons. The laughing golfers are monkeys. And their horned counterparts are impalas and warthogs. 

Aberdare Country Club offers temporary membership to golfers; of the humankind. The others are permanent members. 

The cottages are colonial style, with stylish interiors and well-manicured lawns and cobblestone paths. 

As you take breakfast, peacocks lounge on the aisles and lawns outside the dining rooms, occasionally turning their colourful heads and tails as if they are posing for pictures. 

In the evening when a courier escorts you to your cottage, you will hear hyraxes calling out. Ditto the noises of our distant cousins on your cottage’s roof. Those are monkeys or baboons that are mating or fighting, or doing both, right on top of your head. 

Imagine that. 

First they disrupt your game of golf. Then they disrupt your quiet and intimate moments. If you look up the definition of the word “chutzpah”; you'll see pictures of the monkeys and baboons of Aberdare Country Club.