From poacher to protector: The guardians of Watamu's sea turtles

Sammy Kenga and Francis Nyale, members of the Sabaki Turtle Foundation during a patrol at the Mambrui beach. [Nehemiah Okwembah, Standard]

Sammy Kenga was once among the notorious sea turtle trappers along the shores of Watamu in Kilifi County in the early 2000s.

In his community, turtles were considered a delicacy, and Kenga hunted them for food.

Back then, the beaches were littered with the shells and bones of slaughtered turtles, a grim testament to rampant poaching. Kenga, however, was not as ruthless as others who hunted the creatures for their meat and oil, which were sold on a thriving black market.

Along the coast, brokers exploited the poachers, buying the meat and oil at meager prices and reselling to foreigners for substantial profits

“Before my Damascus moment, I hunted turtles for meat. Some of my friends poached them for oil,” Kenga recounted. This oil was often sold to witch doctors across the Coast and Eastern regions.

Kenga’s turning point came after an encounter with conservationists from abroad who visited the coast to educate communities on the importance of protecting sea turtles. Their message profoundly influenced him, and he is now one of three individuals dedicated to safeguarding sea turtles in the Watamu area despite the persistent threat of poaching.

Kenga, along with Daniel Masha and Francis Nyale, conducts daily patrols to ensure turtle nets remain safe and free from harm. The trio also educates local fishermen on sustainable fishing methods that avoid endangering turtles.

They say turtle poachers use homemade spear guns that pierce the animal’s neck, damaging the spine and leaving it paralyzed. Other turtles also fall victim to fishing trawlers, which cause devastating injuries.

In 2020, 207 dead turtles washed ashore, with 60 per cent showing broken necks from trawler accidents. “Others ingest plastic waste discarded or washed into the ocean, which can be deadly and further threaten turtle populations,” said Masha.

“We patrol early in the morning and late in the evening when turtles come ashore to nest,” Masha explained. He noted that fewer than 100 of the approximately 150 eggs laid hatch successfully, and even then, hatchlings face predators like birds as they make their way to the sea.

Abigael Cate, project manager for the Local Ocean Conservation organization, said turtle poaching remains rampant along the Malindi-to-Kipini coastline.

She said efforts are underway to use video and photographic evidence in court to prosecute poachers, reducing the need to transport endangered species to trial.

“Turtles are globally recognised as highly endangered, with a protective status around the world. They migrate over vast distances, making their conservation a global responsibility,” Cate emphasised.

Monthly beach cleanups organised by conservationists and community stakeholders have significantly reduced waste along the shores. Malindi Marine National Park Senior Warden Ntindi Kassim lauded the collaborative cleanup efforts, noting a marked decrease in trash entering the ocean.

“By reducing waste, we’re not only saving marine life from suffocation but also ensuring the ocean remains a haven for biodiversity,” Kassim said.

John Mvuko Ndago, chairman of Break Yakutsi, underscored the importance of maintaining beach cleanliness. “Keeping our beaches clean is crucial for protecting marine life, which attracts tourists and sustains our economy,” he said.

Honorary Warden Lorenzo De Ponti of Malindi Marine Park shared that debris retrieved from the ocean during regular dives has decreased over time, a promising sign of progress. “We’re focusing on cleaning the ocean floor, often invisible from the surface, with great support from marine park officials,” he said.