Three holidays for the price of one at The Neptune, Diani

Few can dispute that the choicest getaway destination for a Kenyan living in the mainland is the Kenyan shoreline.

Even fewer can disagree that of all beach options to choose from, Diani on the South Coast reigns.

If you decline to take my word for it, then the recent honour bestowed on the beach by the 21st World Travel Awards, regarded as the Oscars of the travel industry, should hold some sway.

Well, as the announcing of the winners was underway, yours truly was soaking up the sun, sand, and sea in what would be voted the best beach in Africa.

After a sleepy uneventful transfer from Moi airport across the Makupa causeway and Likoni channel, buibui-clad Swahili women usher you into the South Coast.

This area starts out as a poverty-stricken marsh before the cramped space gives way to wide open spaces dotted by mud-walled huts before a left turn at Ukunda leads into the forest and scrubby bush-ridden Diani Beach road.

The thoroughfare runs barely 300 metres behind the soft and brilliantly white sand that forever washes back and forth with each wave of usually crystal-clear water of a sea whose reef is a 30-minute swim or a ten-minute boat ride away.

This is what thousands trot across the globe to relish. To bathe of the biggest star and turquoise waters, swim and sport. That and the easy excursions to among others: whale shark waters; Shimba Hills National Reserve, 35 kilometres off, famed for its elephants and spraying Sheldrick waterfalls; Wasini Island and Kisite Mpunguti National Marine Park’s whose star attractions include dolphin spotting, coral gardens, fabulous snorkeling, diving and bird watching; mystic Kaya Kinondo Forest; Picnics and sundowners on Tiwi River’s mouth; and of course the eager nightlife popularised by the uppity Forty Thieves, salacious Shakatak and the look-out Taandoori bar.

Before you can revel in this beauty, however, you have to solve the maze that is accommodation. With so much to choose from, tried and tested accommodation is always the best way to go.

GLEAMING WHITE WALLS

Forty-five kilometres later the reward.

An African-styled deluxe ocean front cottage room (four per unit) with a terrace hosting a Lamu day bed. Gleaming white walls, thatched roofs, and lush lawns laden with bougainvillea, baobab, and swaying arched palms in which an assortment of primate species reside make up an establishment boasting three decades of service; sort of. Neptune Palm, where I set up base actually opened in November 2006.

This was a follow up to the adjacent Neptune Village and Neptune Paradise further on. The three, each uniquely themed, make up the progeny of the chain’s matriarch, Neptune Beach hotel, located on Bamburi Beach, 14 km to the north of mainland Mombasa. Like a mother, the inaugural link’s importance would soon be revealed to me. Using a system of hand bands, access to the all-inclusive chain is made possible.

At the risk of oversimplification, all inclusive basically entails buffet style meals, drinks (yes, alcohol too), daily entertainment activities & beach towels, all foreseen.

A nice touch with the welcome fruit basket and accompanying bottle of wine I must mention. That and the enthusiasm the restaurant staff showed when helping some gentleman surprise his mate with a birthday cake.

Speaking of which, I managed to pick out from the decorous manager’s surname that his old man was one of Kenya’s greatest music maestros. If you were born before the‘90S, you have no choice but to recall these popular Swahili lines Ewe ndugu yangu wee/ Amka kumekucha/ Kamata jembe and panga/ Twende shamba. Uvivu ni Mbaya that used to make a racket from the national broadcaster.

If not that then powerful arrangement Charonyi ni Wasi, written in Taita language to literally mean “life is hard” should ring a bell. Habel Kifoto, founder of Maroon Commandos who juggled the keyboard, sax, lead and solo guitars while singing vocals with consummate ease.

MEMORY LANE

Enough said. The walk down memory lane was matched by the privilege of shooting the breeze with one of the most optimistic players in the industry, Vickram Korla, who apart from being a Director of Operations at the chain is also the Mombasa Vice-Chairman of Hotel Keepers Association.

Bet it has something to do with his experience having joined the chain back in ‘92 playing a hand at the expansion to what the group today boasts. Matter of fact, the Neptune chain, owned by the success story that is hotelier Amin Merali has three other pearls: One in the Mara, Arusha, and in Zanzibar.

It was hard to miss the resident animators who practice on site coming in handy for residents trying to shed holiday excesses with their exercise routines. Not this writer who despite being one of the rounder reed in the swamp is content with his baggage. Nimi’s touch at 5enses Sea Spa in the middle of Neptune Village, with its aromatic smells, peaceful sounds and delightful sights, was a good bargain. But so was loafing like a lizard at the Swahili-furnished Mawimbi deck overlooking the pool and sea. 

The highlight though was visiting Furaha Coast Children’s Home that the chain has been supported for the last 15 years.

Nothing better than interacting with 26 boys who now have a have a better go at life at after life on the streets.

Ironically, two unique beautiful experiences were also the cause of anxiety during my stay. Cute as they appear, the monkeys are rather too smart for their own good. Leave your patio door open and the half-evolved humans will sneak in mostly to pinch fruit and sugar bags. As their habitat reduces, responsible Dianians have taken to ensuring that monkeys, especially the endangered Colobus monkey that I enjoyed watch stuff its mouth with leaves with thumb-less hands, have a safe haven to thrive.

This inconvenience, I will live with. The other, as beautiful as it, is harder to swallow. In not so many words, the ferry cost me, and many other travellers I imagine, my flight that evening despite packing ample time for incidentals. The silver lining on this cloud — I was offered an extra night at Neptune Beach hotel in Bamburi.

Those seeking that special touch, matched with attention to the finest of details should find the Neptune a worthy challenge. That said, natuma salamu kwa Bar man Simon and I need the recipe to that heavenly, farewell, pineapple cocktail you whipped up at Mnazi bar.