Ol Pejeta scene and herd

Sudan, the last male Northern White Rhino in the world. (Photo: Wilberforce Okwiri. Standard) 

Laikipia has been a place I have always wanted to visit. It is the ultimate destination for an ardent safari seeker with at least 50 wildlife conservancies to choose from. The most notable ones in the dusty county include being El Karama, Ol Pejeta, Chololo, Ole Naisho, Mogwooni, Suyian, Lewa Downs, Ole Malo, Mugie, Mpala, Segera, Ol Jogi and Ol Ari Nyiro. So when I got the opportunity to visit Ol Pejeta, I grabbed it.

The drive down to the conservancy took us about four hours. When planning, factor in the almost mandatory stop at Nakumatt Nanyuki or the newer Cedar Mall for supplies. The conservancy located one hour from Nanyuki, sort of springs up on you and soon after paying your conservancy charge, the welcome party consisting of a medley of herbivores greets you with colourful displays.

I arrived on Friday evening with just enough time to spare for a two-hour-long evening game drive. One thing a discerning visitor picks on is how big the herds are. I saw a very large eland and counted an impala harem of not less than 60 does. We also ran into rhinos.

There are eight accommodation options available in Ol Pejeta in the form of tented camps, lodges and homestays to suit every budget. This excludes the six campsites available. I stayed at The Stables, a budget guesthouse with undeniable functionality and ubiquitous warmth from its staff. Children below three are accommodated free while those up to 16 pay half the adult rate. Should you require packed lunch for your expeditions, then Chef Paul will oblige you.

On the second day, we had breakfast before heading out to the nearby Endangered Species Boma. There, I got to pet the 44-year-old male northern white rhino, the only surviving one in the world. Next, we visited a 100-acre enclosure hosting a blind black rhino called Baraka. Baraka was born in the wild, but lost sight in both eyes after getting into a fight and then getting ravaged by cataracts. If you care for a horse ride, make sure to tour the rest of the 600-acre endangered species enclosure in style on their safari horses. Other endangered species include the Grevy's zebra and Jackson's hartebeest.

Famished, we trooped into the Morani Restaurant, a stone throw away, for some sumptuous burgers and hot tea. I also got to rummage through their gift shop before setting off to my next adventure.

The chimpanzee sanctuary

One of the 36 chimpanzees at Ol Pejeta conservancy. (Photo: Wilberforce Okwiri. Standard) 

This is home to the orphaned and abused chimpanzees. It is a collaborative project by the Ol Pejeta Conservancy, the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) and the Jane Goodall Institute. Here, I learn that the creatures are considered a delicacy in Central Africa and if they escape the cooking pot, they are traded in the black market as pets. It takes approximately Sh400, 000 annually to maintain one individual chimp and the sanctuary currently has a total of 36. I meet the alpha male of the troop; Ali Kaka. One and half year old Ali Kaka was rescued by a kind soldier in 2003 from South Sudan where he was kept as a pet by the army.

Ol Pejeta has a current population of 75 lions and I was lucky enough to meet three lions and a lioness. When darkness engulfed the conservancy, ventured out again for a night drive guided by Mbogo and master spotter 'Silas wa lights'. I spotted a bush baby, a hyena den and the rare caracal.

On the third day, I got to visit the Rhino Graveyard that was instituted in 2014. The cemetery is located in the east of the conservancy and honours the lives of all the rhinos that have been killed in the poaching epidemic. A total of 10 gravestones stand underneath the tree; a stark reminder of the devastation of the illegal wildlife trade. Symbolically, the cemetery marked the end of my visit.

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