Tracing the origin of man Part 1

Traditional housing structures along Lake Turkana, Loiyangalani belonging to the El Molo (also known as Elmolo, Dehes, Fura-Pawa and Ldes) that is the smallest ethnic group in Kenya. The El Molo rely on the lake for their existence, living on a diet mainly of fish and occasionally crocodile, turtle and other wildlife. (Photo: Thorn Mulli)

On November 8, 2012, I was honoured to attend an exceptional dinner event at the Nairobi National Museum dubbed ‘Dinner with the Turkana Boy’. The dinner was a celebration of the first time doors to the vault casing Kimoya Kimeu’s 1984 precious fossil find were opened to the public.

For those not acquainted, Kamoya Kimeu is one of the world’s most successful fossil hunter credited with discovering a small skull fragment as he was strolling in Nariokotome village on the western side of Lake Turkana that later, after a number of excavations and studies were done yielded a nearly complete skeleton believed to be that of Homo erectus young boy dating back to more than 1.5 million years ago.

This fossil coded KNM-WT 15000 and nicknamed ‘Turkana Boy’ and invariably called Nariokotome Boy more or less cemented Kenya’s boast of being the bonafide ‘cradle of mankind’.

Flash forward to August 12, and I was sharing breakfast with ‘T-Boy’ yet again just before an expedition to Koobi Fora, a region located east across the jade sea from where his remains were excavated thanks to National Museums of Kenya and Kenya Tourism Board.

Koobi Fora region is touted to be the leading source site for paleontological, geological, and archaeological data. In the language of the Gabbra people who live near the site, the Koobi Fora loosely translates to a place of the commiphora myrrha (one of the primary trees used in the production of myrrh), which is an easy to spot plant in this hot and arid area.

It is about 746 kilometres by road from the capital. The roads have improved significantly from what they were a decade ago but unless you have a death wish, I recommend you split this bucket list journey at least twice for a full experience with commended sleep overs at Isiolo and Loiyangalani.

The journey’s discomfort is washed away awe-inspiring landscape topped by Mount Ololokwe (known as Ol Donyo Sabache) Samburu tribe’s sacred hill.

Mt Ololokwe towering over the Samburu plains, a short distance past Archers Post in Northern Kenya, is striking landmark and a pillar of cultural significance to the Samburu community. (Photo: Thorn Mulli)

While Isiolo is a well-developed stop accommodating all amenities, Loiyangalani is the indorsed desert acclimatisation teether before the final onslaught into fossil paradise. The Samburu called the area "a place of many trees” and just like the oasis it was in days gone, it presently remains the last feel of civilisation. Loiyangalani is essentially the last point to stock up on supplies, enjoy a cold Tusker, and make final phone calls.

While there are select campsites to pick from, the undisputed accommodation queens (all factors considered) is Malabo and Oasis resorts. Here, the sojourner can enjoy the splendour of world's largest permanent desert lake and the world's largest alkaline lake formerly known as Lake Rudolf.

Of contemporary importance is the Lake Turkana Wind Power Project (LTWP) plugged as the single largest private investment in Kenya’s history. The wind farm covers 40,000 acres (162 km ²). Also to be explored is the window into how our ancestors viewed their world.

This is possible thanks to rock-art scattered around the area that is amongst the world’s oldest surviving art, predating writing by tens of thousands of year and rock engravings. Importantly, Loiyangalani is an authentic melting pot of unique cultures culminated in a desert museum.

The annual Marsabit-Lake Turkana Festival, a cultural festival held annually in Loiyangalani, to celebrate the culture in this region celebrates this conglomerate of 14 communities that forms the bulk of the larger Marsabit County’s populace including the El Molo, an almost extinct community.