So close yet so remote

I have always loved visiting Nakuru, the majestic town located on the floor of the Rift Valley. Of late, it might have become (in)famous as ‘Nax Vegas’, but there remain places to have wholesome fun as a family.

The town’s central location makes it a popular stopover for travellers heading to other major urban centres in Kenya, including Nairobi, Eldoret, Kisumu and Nyeri. A wide range of establishments have been set up to cater to these guests, as well as the recent boom of holidaymakers looking for something beyond the tried and tested Naivasha.

And Nakuru does not disappoint. There is much on offer, including tourist attraction sites such as Lake Nakuru and the surrounding national park, Menengai Crater and Hyrax Hill. Rugby matches featuring the country’s finest are popular with the young crowd, and Top Fry Nakuru’s retaining of the Kenya Cup is likely to spur the sports tourism.

On this particular weekend, I did not seek the excitement of an athletic clash, but a quiet, relaxing getaway from the capital. My destination was Punda Milias Camp, picked for its location off the beaten path (and, to be honest, its interesting name).

The drive from Nairobi to Nakuru is an easy one. The road is smooth and the refreshing breeze helps to clear the mind.

Punda Milias sits in the heart of a perfectly peaceful bush, just three kilometres off the Nairobi-Nakuru highway, and one-and-a-half to two-and-a-half hours’ drive (depending on the traffic) from Nairobi.

On arrival, I am met by Kirsty and Jason Anderson, the owners and managers of the camp. After freshening up in my allocated banda, Kirsty offers to take me on a tour of ten-acre property.

Electric fence

The large, well-kept grounds make it an ideal location for private events and gatherings. Next door is Soysambu Conservancy, a 15,000-acre wildlife-packed area on the shores of Lake Elementeita.

Zebras, buffaloes, jackals, gazelles and hyenas are just some of the wildlife that can be seen roaming close to the camp in the day and night. If you are lucky, you might even spot a pride of lions. An electric fence surrounds the camp, keeping the animals in their own area while allowing for fantastic game viewing.

The camp also attracts a variety of colourful birds, including hoopoes, crested cranes, the rare secretary bird, and a variety of eagles. They are a delight to watch and listen to, with weaverbirds being the noisiest feathered residents.

As we walk back to the main buiding, I am curious to know why the name ‘Punda Milias’.

“My husband and I had always dreamt of developing a camp after seeing so many amazing ones while working as safari guides. We wanted to implement our own ideas,” offers Kirsty.

“The name ‘Punda Milias’ was mainly chosen for symbolic reasons. I am a white New Zealander while my husband is a black Kenyan, but rather like the black and white of a zebra, we are one! It also made sense as there are lots of zebras close to the camp.”

The main challenge at Punda Milias Nakuru Camp is accessibility. Many people have no idea how to find their way there.

“We are located along a bumpy but accessible road, even in the wet weather, and we are signposted all the way, so finding us shouldn’t be too difficult,” says Kirsty.

We get back in the evening, just in time for a sumptuous dinner at the a la carte restaurant that serves a great mix of traditional Kenyan and international dishes. The menu varies, depending on what is in season, and I am lucky to have visited when seared prawns with a spicy harissa sauce, and chocolate and Amarula mousse with a strawberry champagne sauce are available. Head chef Joseph and his team churn out delights for the eye and the palette.

After a warm shower, I retire for the night.

There are eight bandas (with double or twin rooms), a large dorm tent that can accommodate ten guests and a family tent sleeping four guests. The height of comfort are four stunning luxury safari tents with private, outdoor bathrooms, and a romantic self-contained cottage.

Homemade bread

Dawn breaks with the sound of birds filling the air. After breakfast, we head off for a game drive in the magnificent Soysambu Conservancy.

We are welcomed by a herd of gazelles quenching their thirst in a river. Afterwards, we spot zebras, buffaloes, hyenas and the endangered Rothschild’s giraffe and Colobus monkeys.

Our drive ends at our picnic spot, overlooking the conservancy, where we enjoy a bush lunch. If you think sandwiches are a humble food, you have not tried Punda Milias’ homemade bread with a variety of mouthwatering fillings.

This also serves as my farewell lunch, and soon I have to say goodbye to this exciting place. But I will be back!