Immortalising the Wanga Kingdom

Tour guide KASSIM SHITAWAH pays tribute to kings of the Wanga Kingdom at the Nabongo Cultural Centre, where their legacy is kept alive.Few people have heard of the Wanga Kingdom. I visited it last year when construction was just beginning. Early this month, I heard that the cultural centre was almost complete and, in fact, was open to visitors. So with two of my friends, we decided to pay a visit. We took the smooth ride to Nakuru, through the picturesque Rift Valley and had a pleasant distraction at the Viewpoint. Then came the bumpy stretch to Mumias. After a seven-hour journey we arrived in Mumias, the land of expansive sugarcane plantations and spent the night here.The following morning we set off to Nabongo Cultural Centre, about eight kilometers along the Mumias-Busia road. Graves of the kings of Wanga keep their memory alive.The site was aptly chosen, having been the sacred land on which past Kings of the Wanga Kingdom were buried. From Mumias town one can take the Busia-bound matatus and alight at the centre or, like us, opt for the boda boda.Nabongo WangaSoon, we were in the company of our guides elder Ali Amanya, the secretary of the management committee and elder Nyangweso Kandwi, the guru of Wanga and Luhya history. He asked me who my father was and went ahead to name my ancestors up to five generations back! Amanya started by giving us the history of the site. The centre is named after the first Wanga King whose name was the Great Nabongo Wanga. Nabongo chose this place because of the Matungu stream, which flows eastwards to his place of origin. He was buried facing East. After his death in 1140, Nabongo Wanga was buried in his homestead and after a few years his bones were exhumed for proper reburial at the Eshiembekho, where the centre sits.The concept of the centre was mooted by Nabongo Mumia II. His council of elders consented to it and Mumias Sugar Company agreed to sponsor phase one of the project. Cultural villageThe Nabongo Cultural Centre is divided into six sections, The cultural village, mausoleum, museum, library, a botanical garden and the canteen. After giving us the brief history of the centre, Amanya led us on a tour of the facility. We began with the museum where few artifacts of the Wanga culture are on display and more are being sought to stock the museum. The library was the next stop. There was nothing much here. Plans are also underway to acquire computers and set up a cyber cafÈ at the centre as well as source for more books. The cultural village is like a typical Wanga homestead. There is the main hut belonging to the head of the homestead and two other huts for his two wives to the right and left. There is another hut housing the man’s parents and two huts for his sons. In this homestead, traditional dishes are prepared and sold to visitors. Important cultural meetings are also held here.The interesting part was the mausoleum. The slab is lined with marked graves of past Nabongo’s, the most prominent being that of Nabongo Wanga. A multi-purpose hall and the expansion of the mausoleum will mark phase two of this project.Wanga cultureIndigenous trees, some with medicinal value, have been labelled with scientific and local names in the botanical garden.We made our final stop at the canteen where we took a drink as the guide listed the roles of the current King. Though he may not be known outside Mumias, Nabongo Mumia II is revered at home. He is seen as the custodian of the Wanga culture and traditions. He has a council of elders working in four committees; cultural, publicity, historical and advisory committees. It is the residents’ hope that the government will acknowledge the cultural and historical importance of this Kingdom and recognise it as is the case with the Baganda Kingdom in Uganda. It is an ideal place to learn about the history of the Wanga people and their Kingdom. This centre is bound to be a lucrative addition to the attractions of the Western Circuit.

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