Leap of faith to meet gorillas, scale mountains

Maasai Giraffe at Akagera National Park - Rwanda. (Photo/ Lydia Limbe)

On November 9, 2005, President Mwai Kibaki stirred the hornet’s nest when he exported 130 wild animals to Thailand. Conservationists and wildfire lovers trained their guns on him.

But unknown to many Kenyans, the country had given out six giraffes to Rwanda in 1986 without a tinge of controversy. Today, the six animals have multiplied to nearly 200.

The Kenyan, now Rwandan, giraffes are an amazing feature to behold at the Akagera National Park in Rwanda. For Kenyans visiting the park, a strange feeling of excitement grips you the moment you hear that your ‘countrymen and women’ (the giraffes) are fine in Rwanda.

Akagera is a breathtaking reserve in eastern Rwanda. The drive from Kigali city is about 110km through rolling hills and picturesque farmlands. It has vast savannahs and shimmering lakes that offer an incredible wildlife experience.

Game rangers say the park has a long history. It bore a heavy brunt during the Rwanda genocide. At the time, poachers killed animals with abandon. Courtesy of remarkable conservation efforts and kind gestures from Kenya, South Africa Britain and other friends of Rwanda that donated animals, Akagera now has enriched its biodiversity.

“An aerial survey in 2023 resulted in over 11,000 animals counted,” says Tourism manager Jean Paul Karinganire.

Rwanda, the land of 1,000 hills boasts many other attractions that earn the country revenues of an average US$620 million annually. Last week, I took a leap of faith to sample them. Kigali is itself a blend of modernity and tradition—art galleries, cafes, and the poignant Genocide Memorial, a reminder of the resilience of Rwandans.

Here, you visit parliament buildings where you see holes puncture by grenades in 1994 when RPF forces clashed with pro-genocide soldiers as Paul Kagame’s team fought to end the killings.

In the capital, there’s the Nyamirambo Muslim-dominated area well known for tasty pilau, Nyandungu eco-park which is rehabilitated wetland and the Imbuga car-free zone where visitors roam freely without the buzzle of cars and motorbikes.

Down to the southwest of the country, I visited the Nyungwe National Park and Canopy Walk. Nyungwe is a pristine rainforest. As you trek downstream, you have to marshal enough courage to walk along the suspension bridge high above the ground. It comes with a thrilling rush, surrounded by the sounds of the forest and views that stretched for miles.

The following morning, having spent the night at the shores of Lake Kivu spanning DR Congo and Rwanda, I embarked on a trek to find chimpanzees. After a few hours of navigating the dense forest, I encountered the primates swinging through the trees.

If you thought that Nyanza is only in Kenya, you are in for a rude shock. Rwanda’s Nyanza region is home to the King’s palace. Before independence, the country was ruled by kings who collaborated with the Belgians. The palace offers insight into the ancient monarchy.

In Musanze town, I visited Redrocks Women Group known for banana wine production. Here, visitors are taught how to make banana drinks. Sipping the sweet, slightly fermented wine, I felt a deep connection to the culture and traditions. The same was the case in Rubavu and Ruzizi.

But sampling Rwanda’s tourism offers isn’t complete without visiting Kinigi, the home of golden moneys and the famous gorillas, also called Ingaji. Annually, the country hosts a naming ceremony for baby gorillas know as ‘Kwita Izina’. The 2024 ceremony was, however, postponed due to the Marburg outbreak.

At the foot of the Volcanoes National Park, the trek through lush forests was invigorating, and after a few hours of hiking, we encountered a family of gorillas. The sight was awe-inspiring, with mothers caring for their young, silverbacks displaying their dominance.

“The silverback gorillas can’t be challenged by anyone in the family. They ensure everyone is safe and help them make their nests for sleeping every evening,” says our guide Francis, who adds that the Volcanoes mountain and forest area is shared by Rwanda, Tanzania and DRC.

The gorillas’ energetic antics made for a delightful experience, a testament to Rwanda’s rich biodiversity. There’s the nearby Dian Fossey Gorilla centre that conducts research on the primates. The Volcanoes park has several mountains that were once active volcano areas. Interestingly, park ranger Emmanuel tells us, gorillas roam freely in the three countries.

Back in Kigali, we had a chance to sample the night life. My friend Amina Waqo fell for ginger tea. But for Kimeli Kemei, Samuel Getachew and I, we were struck by the thriving entertainment spots. Indeed, we concluded that what happens in Kigali must remain in Kigali.

Rwanda is not just a destination; it is a story of healing and progress. Our hosts Maurice Twahirwa, Drocella Musifu, Samantha Teta and their team are hopeful that the story of Rwanda’s rich heritage and its rebirth will be told and retold. “You are always welcome here,” Mr Twahirwa says as he bids us goodbye at Kigali International Airport.