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NAIROBI: We prefer not to talk about death, preferring to romanticise it. It used to be called kicking the bucket, then going west, promotion to glory and nowadays, we prefer to celebrate life.
We are not the first generation to fear death, neither are we the last. In our traditions, which have a life of their own, death was feared and special ceremonies conducted to appease the spirits. The proliferation of funeral homes seems to indicate we no longer fear death as much as we used. It has become a reliable source of income for many a Kenyan.
The dominance of Nairobi Lee Funeral Home was finally broken. Even universities have funeral homes as a source of income. A lot of people are now making a living from the dead. Such is the paradox of life. If you live in Nairobi, the pace of life might not allow you to think much about death like in the Bhutan, unless jolted by the death of a close friend or a national catastrophe.
But if you are keen, you will notice Makaburi (cemetery) along Uhuru Highway while stuck in traffic jam. The Makaburi interestingly neighbours Railways Golf Club on one end and the vibrant Upper Hill on the other side. It is a cool reminder that no matter what we do in life, and no matter what we indulge in, our destination is not debatable and is intertwined. How many golfers take a glance on this cemetery before hitting the small ball?
If you drive further on along Uhuru Highway and turn right into Lang’ata Road, you will soon come across other Makaburis, less prominent but more crowded. Lang’ata cemetery’s location is interesting; it neighbours Nairobi National Park, teaming with life both flora and fauna. How does death and life coexist so harmoniously?
Another famous cemetery is off Ngong Road near showground and neighbours another golf club, Golf Park and Ngong forest. Both are teaming with life.
The original planners of the city of Nairobi seem to have deliberately hidden death away from the vibrant CBD. Though I hear there used to be another cemetery next to KBC/ National Theatre. Any confirmation? Cemeteries can be located in odd places. There used to be one near the gate of Alliance Girls School (across). Is it still there? I found lots of cemeteries next to schools in America’s Deep South, particularly in areas where African-Americans live. I found the same pattern in South Africa.
Back to economics. The living are making lots of money from death because services around it are very inelastic in economics speak which means increasing the price of such services does not lead to a corresponding decrease in demand. This ensures profitability. Medical services are also inelastic. How often do you negotiate for mortuary fees, hearse and other related services?
CAREY FRANCIS
The other reason for inelasticity is that the living want, without shouting loudly to finish with internment and go on with other pressing issues of life, before their turn to be escorted to their resting place- it does not matter whether you call it grave or cemetery.
The economics of graves or cemeteries goes beyond the cost or profit of internment. Cemeteries are often the few open spaces in some cities, Nairobi being no exception. Such open spaces attract speculators and grabbers; they do not fill at once, space is left for late comers-like all of us. Did I hear Kariokor cemetery is under threat? The location of some cemeteries near major urban centres makes them very attractive for real estate developers.
But cemeteries or graves are more than resting places. They are part of life’s continuity and remind us to moderate our lives, to be considerate to others because inevitably, we shall end there. In fact, some religions even forbid princes from being buried in coffins or other possessions maybe to signify our helplessness in the face of death.
Taking care of cemeteries or crematoriums is a sign of national maturity and growth. Developed countries really take care of their cemeteries, perhaps a sign that they respect those who came before them. They even have national cemeteries. In UK, the prominent people are buried at Westminster Abbey. In the USA, the national cemetery at Arlington Virginia is a resting place for military heroes. It is has 624 acres with about 400,000 graves. Kenyan grabbers please do not be annoyed. In Kenya we are yet to actualise the heroes’ corner, where those who go beyond the call of duty can be buried and serve as an inspiration to the living. Any county with a heroes’ corner?
Let us give credit where it is due. Starehe Boys Centre had its founder Geoffrey Griffins buried within the school grounds. Alliance High School has a number of former teachers including Carey Francis buried there. I see some correlation between burial in these schools and at Westminster Abbey. And why is Jomo Kenyatta’s mausoleum near Parliament not open to public?
Though we seem fearless when grabbing cemetery land, there is enough evidence that we fear the dead, seeing them as competitors for power and influence. Want evidence? We copied the American constitution with governors, chiefs of staff, senators and cabinet secretaries, but we do not want to see anyone’s image on the currency like on the US dollar. Why are we selective on this one?
Cemeteries can also be tourist attractions. Are pyramids in Egypt not cemeteries where pharaohs are buried? Ten million tourists flock to Egypt to see these graves. That includes couples on honey moon. Visiting graves before you get your own children seems very cool. Cemeteries are also repositories of history. They tell us who lived where and when.
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The Commonwealth war graves, scattered throughout the country from Mombasa to Gilgil to Kiganjo are resting places of those who fought for the British Empire at its apogee. Where are the graves of those who fought for Kenya’s war of independence- Mau Mau? Does it surprise anyone that we can get the trial records of Dedan Kimathi, but not the location of his grave?
There have been arguments that we should move away from burials to cremation to preserve land for the living. Lots of entrepreneurs feel that graves represent idle land. Unlike skyscrapers, we are yet to build multi-layered graves; you must go under the sod. That limits the supply of graves. No wonder most counties are increasing the price of those resting places; the demand is higher than the supply. Recall the controversy over the new cemetery after Lang’ata starting filling up?
Our cultures, despite 100 years of education and missionaries presence makes it very hard to stop burials just like FGM (clitoridectomy?). Most people want to be buried in their own land; it is often seen as a badge of lifetime achievement. Needless to say, lots of churches have cemeteries. Interestingly Lord Errol is buried in a church compound in Kiambu town.
Most court cases involving burials arise from the belief that if someone is buried on some land, it gives the living some obligations like inheritance. Luckily or unluckily, lots of city dwellers are opting to be buried in public cemeteries or to be cremated. In some countries, you cannot be buried in your own land. It is very hard to sell land when there is grave particularly of your parents.
The question on where one should be buried is rarely addressed, just as we rarely write our wills. It is a remnant of our traditional thinking. I’m sure lots of readers are wondering why am writing about death...
GREAT PARADOXES
The fear of death arises from its mystery. Science apart, most religions have explanations on what happens during death and after. Since no one has ever returned to tell us the truth about death, we must rely on religious beliefs and pseudo beliefs. Death is bound to remain a mystery for a long time to come. The mystery of death serves as barrier to entry into death related business and the few who get into it make lots of money.
Where do we go from here? Economics apart, there is compelling reason to preserve resting places, graves and cemeteries. They serve as reminders of the sacrifices made by past generations for our sake. Think of the millions who died in World Wars and the freedom we enjoy today because of their bloodshed. Think of the sacrifices Kenyan freedom fighters made and freedom we enjoy today. How many of us have spent a night outside, let alone in a malaria infested rain forest in the Far East?
Next time you pass near Makaburini or near a commonwealth war cemetery, take a look, take a walk, and read the epitaphs on them. These are not idle grounds; they are links to the past and to the future. They are symbols of the great paradoxes of life which we are all part of.
—The writer is senior lecturer, University of Nairobi. [email protected]