It was one of my strangest dreams to visit one of the former Soviet republics. The dream was realised three decades after the Soviet Union ended. And it came through an academic conference in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan in Central Asia.
It’s not that I am fascinated by communism, more so after reading George Orwell’s ‘1984’. No. My fascination is how different countries handled the transition from communism to democracy or its variant after the end of the Cold War. This transition mirrors our own transition from Kanu to multipartism. Both transitions precipitated political chaos that reverberate to this day.
Some countries such as China deftly navigated through the end of the Cold War, coming out stronger. Others such as Russia are still coming to terms with the end of the Russian empire.
My visit to Kyrgyzstan was a chance to see firsthand this transition. Maybe I should have visited these republics earlier and observed the gradual changes just as I have observed the aftermath of Kanu.
Getting to Kyrgyz Republic, or Kyrgyzstan, took us through Istanbul, Turkey. It is five hours to Bishkek from Istanbul.
Bishkek is a slow city by Nairobi standards, but orderly and clean. Citizens use zebra crossings, and it has very wide walkways lined with trees. Our academic group consisting of Nigerians, Ghanaians, Tanzanians, Ugandans, Ethiopians and Kenyans could have been the biggest African group to have ever ‘invaded’ Kyrgyzstan. The vibrant real estate present in Nairobi is missing in Bishkek.
Electric trams supplement buses in transport. The buses are made in China, going by their models. No car model dominates, but Japanese and Korean cars are more noticeable. I saw a Cadillac and a VW too. One old car left my head spinning, Lada, a hangover from the old Soviet Union.
One of my surprises is that the old Soviet republic does not appear that badly off. Roads and other infrastructure look good, though a facelift would do. How are the other republics like Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan or Kazakhstan? ‘Stan’ means land. How do citizens feel about their lives before and after the end of the Soviet Union? A language barrier kept me from getting answers to this question.
The Kyrgiz citizens are very courteous. Extreme poverty and inequality are not noticeable even in the rural areas. And crime is rare. I did not see any slums around Bishkek and I explored the city on foot.
The country is 90 per cent Muslim but mosques are few - so are Churches. I saw an Orthodox church, which shares a unique cross with Africa Independent Pentecostal Church of Africa. How did that happen? Hijabs are common on the streets. The muted religious presence may be another hangover from the Soviet era when religion was forbidden. Did you hear that Kenyans?
We visited a national park, Ala-Archa Nature Park near the Tian Shan Mountains. Rivers from the melting snow were like music with Christmas tree on the slopes. Bishkek has more parks compared to Nairobi.
During the trip I learnt polygamy is becoming more common nowadays; it was not possible during the Soviet era. Dowry is roughly $3,000 to $5000. Like in Kenya, you add a few sheep, a cow and a horse. I was told dowry is higher in the southern part of the country. Not sure if it’s Kabete or Murang’a effect.
Malls open at 10am and close at 10pm. Capitalism seems muted there. Is that borowed from Europe where 24 hours shopping is rare? Western brands are common except banks; Sheraton, Hyatt, KFC, CNN and Coca Cola.
Food is healthy and tasty, with plenty of beef, chicken, fish and lamb - and horse too, we were told. Barsook, small mandazis, are popular during occasions and we ate plenty. Dough is rolled like chapati then cut into small pieces and deep fried. And they have their mursik (fermented milk)!
Four days were enough. Before leaving Manas airport at Bishkek, which has uncanny semblance to JKIA, my economic spirit was uplifted by an advert for Kenyan tea! The brand is Kenya Sunset. Our flowers find their way there too. What else?
The trip back through Istanbul was in day time. From the air, we admired the farmlands near Bishkek. Then for almost 2,000km to the Caspian Sea, it was all desert. Were it not for my faith in science, I would have concluded all the photos of planet Mars are taken in this desolate region with dry lakes. Effect of climatic change?
Back to Istanbul, it was a long wait, another late flight home. Istanbul airport has a museum inside. Maybe Kenya Tourism Board should take note.
A few questions raced through my mind as I waited to return home. One, why didn’t we invest in the former Soviet Union and China after they opened up? Two, why can’t I find Equity Bank, Mama Oliech and other brands in Central Asia? Why did we let the wave of globalisation pass us? Why do we invite investors, why can’t we be the investors?
Three, how did some of these republics transition into new economic and political systems without imploding? How did they keep their identity despite western and Russian influence? Many Kyrgyz work in Russia and send money home just like Kenyans do in the West or Middle East.
Four, Kyrgyzstan is part of China’s Belt and Road Initiative just like Kenya. It’s a small world.
Five, in Kyrgyzstan, life expectancy is 72 years in 2024. Ours is 67.7. And in Kyrgyzstan, income tax is 10 per cent and VAT at 12 per cent.
Finally, I carried some souvenirs, three stones from the snow-peaked mountains. It’s a reminder of the beauty of the country of seven million people. Not just natural beauty, but beauty in their hearts. Perhaps after growing near the mountains, I am at home in any mountainous country.
