MOMBASA: Mansoor Seif runs the family’s 45-year-old business along a street in Mombasa’s Bondeni area.
He is a Kenyan of Omani origin. The business specialises in making Halwa, a sweetmeat confection as jelly. It is made from starch, cardamom or some other spice, ghee and a generous serving of sugar. Sometimes seeds, cashew nuts or almonds are added to give it a special flavour.
Much has changed since Mansoor’s ancestors sold their first bowl of Halwa, but its famous taste has remained the same. Some other shops have made futile attempts to replicate this taste but failed because they do not have the knowledge or access to the original recipe.
Mansoor serves the popular Ramadhan and Eid meal specialty alongside his two sons to customers who travel from far and wide.
“Our recipe is inherited from the times of the Pharaoh. My father told me that a version of the recipe was discovered in ancient Egypt,” says Mansoor.
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In the past, Halwa was a privilege of the rich.
“The intense sweetness of Halwa is designed to make occasions memorable,” he modestly describes the craze that has people scrambling for his product whenever a wedding, anniversary or important occasion comes up.
Halwa is a favourite especially during fasting. “It restores body sugar levels after a long day of fasting,” says Uthman Mukhtar, a resident of Mombasa’s old town.
It is served with Kahawa Tungu (unsweetened) for maximum effect. Others narrated how they use it as a dessert after the meal of breaking the fast (iftaar).
“It is absolutely amazing, sweet as ever and packed with energy that warms up the body,” says Mahfoudh Aamir.
Others narrated how it spices up romance between couples.
“I cannot remember Idd where I did not serve Halwa!” says Fauzia Abdulkarim. “It is a tradition I will uphold and pass on to my children.”
Half a kilo of the Halwa retails at Sh180. The ingredients and method of preparations remain the same. The shop where Seif and sons dispense the Halwa is still overhung with a sweet saffron aroma, and the packaging remains a special makuti bag.
Halwa is associated with myths and superstitions. Some claim that the meal is a favourite of evil spirits making those who consume get possessed. Seif laughs at the claim saying that the particular myth is a fabrication with no basis. “So many people take Halwa, serve their guests and they are perfectly normal,” he says.
However, he shared an anecdote associated with Halwa. “When I was young, I overheard that the main reason Halwa is served during weddings is to take away attention on the newlyweds. Its sweetness diminishes focus on the bride and groom and that way they cannot be afflicted by the evil eye.” He laughs over this myth. An infectious laughter that make us join in.
The sweet is manufactured away from the shop and according to Mansoor, the family is in charge of the preparation so that they can guarantee its quality and hygiene. “It requires a lot of skill and is a painstakingly slow and meticulous process,” says Mansoor.
He told Wednesday life that the perfect Halwa is a stable jelly and not the runny soggy mass imposters try to pass off as the real thing to unsuspecting customers.
The serving for weddings is usually with a large plate where everyone cuts their own piece, while the takeaway for homes is wrapped in a makuti basket.
“This being Idd ul Fitr where faithful are required to partake a symbolic meal as soon as they awake to indicate their end of fasting period, Halwa takes centre stage. It has definitely take over from dates as the main sweet course of the festival.”
