Sirikoi: A peek into ‘the world’s best resort’

This is a triumphant tale of enlightened conservation. Success that enabled the re-creation of one of the most romantic spots on earth - Sirikoi Lodge. This lodge was ranked as the Best Resort in the World in the 2019 Condé Nast Readers' Choice Awards - proof that many hands make work light achieving the seemingly impossible.

Beginnings

The first part of this tale begins in 1922 with a privately-owned cattle ranch on the northern slopes of Mount Kenya (Laikipia). In 1983, this ranch christened Lewa Downs carved 5, 000 acres into a rhino sanctuary. This one of a kind concept drew in visitors who came in to see how livestock co-existed with wildlife.

As all noble initiates go, the passionate concerted effort paid off and the entire Lewa Downs Ranch eventually turned into a full-fledged refuge for wildlife covering an esteemed 62, 000 acres encapsulating Government-owned Ngare Ndare Forest. Today, endangered species including rhino and Grevy’s zebra roam free. And come they have in record numbers, tourists that is, with one of the famous visits resulting in a princely proposal.

Before Lewa Wildlife Conservancy reached its current enviable state, however, a relatively small yet critical piece of the jigsaw had to be accommodated. 

Road to success

The second part of this tale draws in a barely-in-teens boy who is forced to think and act beyond his years after losing his father? Time and tide wait for no man and this Nairobi School alumni tired playing truant in school waded in tailor-made safaris hinging on tentacles extending to most of Kenya’s unbeaten track as an edge few could match.

Ingenuity extended into self-taught construction that resulted in Kenya’s first tented camp, Island Camp in Baringo. This was in 1972. In 2000, Kenya Tea Development Agency (KTDA) was about to embark on an ambitious Eucalyptus tree farming project on a chunk of land at its heart totalling 7, 500 acres. 

The fast-growing trees were intended to provide energy to heat furnaces for drying tea leaves. 4, 000 families would also be settled in the semi-arid chunk effectively signalling the death of the fragile eco-system. The conservation exertion roped the now grown William Roberts who helped initiate a land swap deal that saw the project and the families settled in a more farming conducive patch in Timau. That was in the year 2000 and in 2002, Sirikoi lodge was fashioned.

My Experience 

I had been to Lewa before for its equally famous marathon. While the experience had its high, the marathon campsite was rather basic and increased human activity dampened the true flare of this gem. 

Keen on the full Lewa experience, I opted for Sirikoi, one of the possible five accommodation options. After enduring a 50-minute flight from Wilson Airport thanks to my acrophobia, I touched down at Lewa Downs. 

If you can spare four hours, I recommend the scenic road option through Nanyuki using an all-weather road Matunda Gate (find out the guidelines on 'Lewa standard' colours (green / khaki/beige).

There are safari tents, then there are luxury safari tents. Sirikoi crows the latter. This rating is based on a personal evaluation of the state of the bathroom. The roomy en-suite bathroom has both a shower, a free-standing bath (with views), WC and a double sink with gold finishing that scream heaven in the light. 

Each tent vaunts a viewing deck with incredible panoramas of the waterhole fed by the Sirikoi stream. When it comes to experiences, try beating an hour-long massage in this serene environment only broken by chipping from birds and later sipping tea draped in an afro-chic robe that you work hard not to pinch.

If you have the taste for more solid accommodation, away from the luxury tents, then the two-bedroom Sirikoi cottage designed with families or friends travelling together in mind should do the trick.

If exclusivity and ostentation are more of your cut then Sirikoi House should knock you off your socks. Sirikoi House is only sold on an exclusive use basis and comes with its own private safari vehicle and guide, as well as chef and team of staff. 

Apart from exquisite furnishings drawn from all over the world, guests at the House also have access to a private wooden deck built overlooking the wetlands; perfect for private sundowners and meals. 

Souvenirs

Whatever you fancy, all options are exquisite depicting Willie’s architectural essence and tasteful interiors by celebrated American interior designer, Suzanne Kassler. Keen on souvenirs? I own a leather, beaded belt I purchased at the gift shop that I reckon to be the finest stitch possible.

The best part for me, however, was the mealtimes served on a deck shaded by a canopy overlooking the waterhole inches away. Just like wildlife, only the freshest of ingredients make the cut. If fluky, you could just share lunch with Nditu, a five-year-old orphan Giraffe, who found refuge in Sirikoi and has formed the oddest of friendships with the establishment’s horses. 

Gold eco-rated

Did you know that you could grow most of your dietary requirements on one acre? Sue’s pride and joy, an organic vegetable and fruit garden, free-range chickens, and a crystal clear mountain spring providing all the lodge’s water farm is testament.

This organic farm augmented by environmentally friendly practices in camp and community support and development have earned Sirikoi and Ecotourism Kenya Gold Eco-Rated certification; one of the few lodges in Kenya to have one.

It has been ages since I saw lions up close let alone a crash of rhino and my guide (every guest or group gets a personal guide) Onesmus Lesiata, a Samburu from Mwamba, iced my Lewa experience with sightings of the big five.  I confidently reckon that the probability of encountering the Big Five in Lewa rivals even the world-famous Mara.

As the conservancy has grown, the amount of wildlife it supports has increased and now you can enjoy some rewarding game viewing here. 

Both Grevy's and common zebra can be found on the open grass plains alongside Grant's gazelle, buffalo, reticulated giraffe, Beisa oryx, eland and impala. Black and white rhino are both found and predators are well represented with lion, cheetah, leopard and hyena. 

During the heat of the late morning, many of these animals converge at the swamps to drink. Waterbuck are always nearby and large elephant herds are frequent visitors so sometimes it is possible to see hundreds of animals all in one spot. Finally, the lucky may spot the rare swamp-dwelling antelope, the sitatunga.

Top activities to do in Lewa

• Enjoy horseback or camel safari taking you through the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy with its abundant wildlife and their habitat is surely an experience of a lifetime. Comfortable camping facilities, excellent cuisine, and experienced guides will ensure your wellbeing on your safari.
• Climb Mt Kenya and visit Lake Rutundu on Mt Kenya for a fly-fishing excursion and stay at the rustic and ultra-private Rutundu Log Cabin where Prince William proposed.
• Day trips to the adjoining Ngare Ndare Forest to look for the elusive Columbus monkey population and to learn about the indigenous flora and its local uses. The shimmering blue pools and the only canopy walk in East Africa should also impress.
• Lewa Wilderness hosts and flies the only open cockpit biplane in East Africa which will take you around the conservation areas of northern Kenya. It is a truly magical experience and very much returns you to the "Out of Africa" era. The pilot, Will Craig has over 5,000 hours experience flying mostly in the Lewa area and can show you how the conservation project is improving and positively affecting the local communities.
• Educational Tours on the History and Day-to-Day Operations of the Conservancy: Whether it’s a visit to the pre-historic archaeological site, a local school, water project or feeding a baby rhino there are plenty of activities that will pique your interest for a behind-the-scenes look at the conservancy operations.
• A helicopter ride to Mount Ololokwe for Breakfast.