Traders make a fortune from stitching pouches

By Njoki Chege

Bags make a strong fashion statement about someone. Their different shapes, sizes and colour too define character.

While some original designer bags exist, the market has been raided by fake imitations.

In Kenya, demand for handmade bags is huge and the business is fast picking.

Scores of entrepreneurs are joining the trade that was once a preserve of imported products.

One such business mind is Alvin Mei. After campus, he was at a crossroads, not sure what exactly to do with his life.

Alvin Mei displays one of his handcrafts [Photo:Joseph Kiptarus/Standard]

He was torn between looking for a job and starting his own business.

During his campus days, Mei would make some extra income from designing and making cards, ornaments and small bags.

"Once I was out of campus, I seriously gambled between looking for a job and starting my own outfit. I became passionate about starting my own business and in 2005, Urban Phunk was born," says Mei.

The name ‘Urban Phunk’ is quite catchy — no doubt and Mei explains the rationale behind it.

Offers Mei: "Urban represents the background setup of the outfit. Our target market is in the urban centres, from where we operate.

‘Phunk’, on the other hand, is a modified version of the word ‘funk’ which represents a timeless, creative concept.

"Funk is the only word that has traversed through all generations — from the sixties to date," he says.

Mei did not start his outfit with much capital, as he explains. He had just moved out on his own, trying to cut out a life for himself, which he confesses was not an easy task. But he recalls having some Sh5,000 stashed somewhere for his business.

He bought a few materials — denim, khaki and canvas and he set the ball rolling.

Mei also did his own labour to cut costs.

But he had a dream.

"I wanted to create and place a Kenyan brand on the streets. You can make so many things but without distinction, you will just be one among a sea of many creations," he explains.

Leather branding

It is for this reason that Urban Phunk opted for a leather branding with the words ‘Urban Phunk’ engraved on it to have a distinction from the other labels in the market.

Mei began by working from home and then free-lancing the customised bags, t-shirts, shirts among other items. Soon, his business expanded and he rented a small workshop at Jericho market. By the end of 2009, Urban Phunk opened another shop in town, which runs to date.

Wangari Githinji joined the industry last year after learning the trade from a lady friend.

The bags are not only unique and customised, but very eye catching as well. They are also difficult to figure out, and the long process of making them explains why.

"Basically, the bags are made from a hard texon board — the one used to make shoe soles. The boards are then wrapped with a cotton material, sewn up and fitted with a zip. This is called a mount," says Wangari.

The next step, as she explains, involves doing the beadwork — which requires lots of concentration.

"We combine colour and design to fulfill desires and expectations of the client," she says adding "I do the beadwork on a fishing line and the beadwork over the mount. The next step involves making the handles and the base with heavy velvet material."

On a good day, Wangari makes two bags.

"The smaller the beads, the more work I have on my hands," she says.

Wangari either uses plastic or wooden beads, depending on the clients’ preferences.

The beads are imported from China, and they come in different shapes and colour. The velvet and cotton material comes from Gikomba market.

Wangari’s bags made of plastic beads retail for Sh1,300, while the ones made of wooden beads retail for Sh1,500.

Besides handbags, Wangari also makes purses, dolls (on order) as well as mats. The mats are made from an assorted range of wooden beads.

Says Wangari: "Mats are very easy to make. They come in a pack of six and in different sizes. The designs are flexible, easy to wipe, don’t get burned or torn, frayed on the edges or break. They are cheap and durable. A pack of six goes for Sh500."

As both artists explain, their greatest strength lies in their creativity, which gives them a competitive edge above the rest.

Urban Phunk, as Mei explains, produces items with a unique twist. His products are not only unique, but original as well.

Banking on creativity

"We do a lot of in-creation and try to avoid imitations as much as possible. Our creativity is our major strength, that is what makes us stand out," offers Mei.

Mei’s aim is to create products that are both aesthetic and functional.

Clients are also looking for durability and quality in such items as bags, as Mei and his team found out.

"We do a lot of surveys to find out what Kenyans really want in the items we produce. Kenyans want to buy Kenyan stuff, but the bigger issue here is to get the value for their money — not just to buy Kenyan stuff to promote Kenyans," he explains.

As the creative director of the outfit, Mei’s job is clearly cut out. His major job is concept development, which encompasses ensuring that the items are relevant to the Kenyan market and can also measure up to international standards.

For Wangari, client is king and she operates under their demands.

"People come with all sorts of demands. They want customised bags, others want a bag to match every African attire they have, and so I have to meet those demands," says Wangari.

While the second hand products might pose as a competition, Mei views the industry as another source of inspiration.

In a bid to make his items stand out, Mei has gone the extra mile to give his items a Kenyan touch.

From lacing his bags with African fabrics such as lessos to making bags with the Kenyan flag, Mei has truly put Urban Phunk on the fashion map.

"For instance, a backpack with a Kenyan flag is a very relevant concept to the Kenyan market. You would proudly carry such bags with you in a foreign country because it represents your identity," he says.

In a world full of imitators and quacks who offer similar goods at half the price, competition is bound for Urban Phunk and Wangari as well. The prices differ depending on the type, design and fabric used.

Then there is the stereotype that products made in Kenya should be automatically cheaper.

"Kenyans are still operating under the stereotype that Kenyan stuff should not be expensive even if it is of quality. Kenyans are not ready to spend so much on locally manufactured goods," Mei reveals.

The current market is also flooded with cheap, low quality items made in China, making it difficult for locally made items to penetrate the market.