Magical healing waters of Lake Bogoria

By CRYSTAL OKUSA

If you plan to head to Lake Bogoria, make sure your car is in mint condition. We made that mistake and 126km from Bogoria our car broke down and the mechanic we found took ages to repair it. Eventually, we decided to jump into a matatu and proceed with our journey.

Steam rises from the hot springs at Lake Bogoria.

That turned out to be another mistake. The sun was scorching hot and the long ride to this semi-arid part of Kenya grew more tiring with each passing kilometre.

In Nairobi, the Michuki-rules are still maintained to some level and, in many cases, passengers still sit three per row. Here in the backwoods of Nakuru, the scenario is a lot different and we found ourselves sitting five people to a row. To catch a view of the breathtaking views of the expansive, well-irrigated wheat farms of the Rift Valley, I had to squeeze through fellow passengers.

A few stops before Marigat, hawkers rushed their honey bottles towards us. Honey is the sole source of livelihood here. At Marigat town, we dropped off the matatu and jumped onto a five-seater Peugeot where the tout forced ten people to sit together on a row.

As I grew more exasperated with the day, I began to appreciate why the locals here prefer to wear loose lessos to cope with the exhausting heat and constant crumpling with people in public transport vehicles.

By the time we arrived at the Lake Bogoria Spa Resort, I was tired, exhausted and my body was burnt all over by the sun. The pool, therefore, looked inviting. Thankfully, the cool breeze from the green vegetation and forestry at the resort started working wonders on my body, cooling the hot air.

Our first welcome was from eager monkeys who scampered at our feet. At the reception, a huge statue of a lion in a glass frame that looked so real and harmless grabbed our attention. I enquired if I could touch it but was told the glass was sealed.

Medicinal values

Inside, we found groups of families and friends from neighbouring towns who were here to unwind. I learnt this was common during weekends. As we waited to check in, a group of children in wet swimming trunks ran through the reception and dashed to the hot spa pool.

Tourists enjoy a campfire at the resort [PHOTOs: Saidi Hamisi/Standard].

The manager on duty Evans Onsongo welcomed us with refreshments before checking us into our rooms. After a sumptuous lunch that made me forget the rigours of our journey, we enjoyed a tour of the resort. A group of old fashioned buildings that house the main block with guest rooms, main restaurant and bar particularly struck me. At the end were cottages and beyond them lay a plain field where visitors can pitch tents.

The resort is strategically located near a feeder road that leads to Lake Bogoria hot springs, which explains why its Choma Ranch is famous, especially with tourists (local and foreign) going to the hot springs. Among the grass-thatched shades is a ‘sports club’ from where revellers can watch their favourite teams fight it out while enjoying succulent goat meat.

For a more cultural look, Turkana huts have been constructed around the Choma Ranch that provide a view of the flowing river. Bird nests all around the trees add to the natural feel.

Darkness was looming by the time we finished our tour around the spa resort so we settled for dinner. Our physical healing continued with the spa’s famous mwambwene soup made from neem mixed with boiled goat intestines. Its medicinal values are said to protect one from the common cold and stomachaches. The soup has a bitter taste but thoughts of healing kept me going.

Afterwards, I got to enjoy what brought me there in the very first place — the therapeutic healing of the spa pool. I could hardly contain myself as I took a dip into the waters. They are said to provide hydrotherapy treatment for the physically challenged and those suffering from arthritis and other muscle ailments.

The night was chilly but that did not stop me as I had been reliably informed the pool remains hot at 37 degrees throughout the day and night. The feeling was heavenly. The warm waters massaged my body and relaxed every fibre of my being. As the tiredness washed away, I gained the energy to play water polo and netball with my friends without fear of drowning. We reluctantly left the pool several hours later and retired to bed.

The next morning, the sun’s rays got through the curtains and woke me up. After a splendid breakfast that included watching the monkeys have a ‘meeting’ of sorts, the occasional tortoise stroll slowly in the gardens and ostriches grazing in front of the hotel, we jumped onto a bus that was to take us to the Lake Bogoria hot springs, which are a mere two kilometres from the resort.

Thousands of flamingos

The drive passed through the game reserve, which is home to cheetahs, ostriches, impala, waterbucks crater kudu and other wild animals. By this time, the sun was already scorching and dehydrating. However, the sight that met our eyes a few minutes later brushed all those thoughts away.

Before us lay thousands of flamingos who literally turned the colour of the lake to pink. The view was breathtaking.

We got out of the bus and walked on the geysers, which were boiling on different parts of the shore intermittently producing steam to warn visitors off the no go zones.

I tested with my feet to discover where the sand sank. I have heard that people accidentally sink in the sand and end up with severe burns. I stood in front of the steam spraying from the geysers. This was my morning sauna. Tales abound of how the steam relieves the skin of any diseases.

Our tour guide informed us that attempts to harvest hydropower were conducted here but failed. Until researchers find how to do it, the geysers will remain untapped.

In December, the resort hosts community cultural festivals, which feature song and dance from local communities. In April, the resort organises the Easter Caravan, which takes guests on a sightseeing tour of birds, animals, community cultural presentations, hiking and picnicking. In August, the resort is known for its family fun days.