Kisumu's charms steeped in history

thornmulli@standardmedia.co.ke

Adhi Kisumo translates to “I am going to Kisumu” from the Dholuo language.

My colleague and head of photography Jacob Otieno, in an animated impromptu language and history lesson, teaches that had I uttered the same words in the 19th Century, I would be implying that I was headed to the marketplace to conduct kisuma, which loosely translates to barter trade. This is where the Kisumu City got its name.

Kisumu was especially strategic, as it remains to date, as an important market for fishermen returning from Nam Lolwe (Lake Victoria) with their catch.

Historical references document that in 1901, a port was founded in Kisuma as the main inland terminal of the Uganda Railway, or Lunatic Express.

For most of 1902, the area was called Port Florence after Florence Preston, the wife of the engineer who drove the last nail in the last sleeper of the railway, before reverting to the westernised Dholuo name — Kisumu.

In the colonial days, the port also served as a landing point on the British flying boat passenger and mail route from Southampton to Cape Town.

That was before the jet airline era that allowed this writer to fly from the capital in 45 minutes. The alternative 346-kilometre journey by road would have taken at least half a day.

Arriving at dusk, my contacts ensured that I spent my first day in a state of inertia, thanks to a night out sampling the town’s ultimate party points — Duke of Breeze’s Rooftop Bar and Heineken Lounge located in the heart of the town centre and Club Signature located in downtown Kisumu.

But I could hardly complain about spending an idyllic day at Sovereign Hotel. I was also marking off my bucket list of Kisumu’s finest offerings, but do I say?

The boutique hotel that officially opened its doors to the public in January 2014 is a white 32-room manor house marked by a symmetrical façade  crowned with red clay roof tiles.

The front steps lead up to a waiting area with an attractive wood finishing. As you wait to be checked in, you can take a right turn to the residents’ lounge and enjoy a coffe and fresh pastry.

If a substantial meal is more expedient, head to the aptly named Maestro Restaurant that promises Mediterranean cuisine with an Asian twist.

And if you are more adventurous, a dedicated area off the brasserie-styled restaurant proposes fresh sushi and teppanyaki, a novelty in this part of the country.

A massage at the poolside Club Zest, which also flaunts a fully-equipped gym and steam room, helps to ease tense muscles.

Or you could just sit on the balcony, relishing a view of the lake against the ambiance of jazz tunes from the Legends Bar and Lounge.

My second day was all about experiencing the sights. The Sovereign is located opposite Nyanza Club in Milimani, and an easy walk into the city. Hard to miss at the intersection of Mosque Road and Oginga Odinga Road is the Town Clock. The inscription on this towering monument unveiled on August,19, 1938, by then Governor of Kenya Robert Brooke-Popham, indicates that it was erected by brothers Mohamed, Alibhai, Hassan and Rahimtulla Kassim, in memory of their explorer father Kassim Lakha, who arrived in Zanzibar in 1871.

Further on, on Temple Road, the Siri Guru Sikh temple that is part of 21 historical sites elevated to national monument status recently stands as a testament of the history of the Sikh community in Kisumu.

The Lwang’ni bandas on the lake shore were an obvious stop, thanks to numerous recommendations from everyone who knew about my trip.

The legendary fish preparation expertise lived up to expectations, despite zooming flies—which give the place it its name.

As I walked around, I could not help but notice the incredible number of car repair shops. My mental note was sanctioned on my return by Jacob who swore that the popular Swahili term jua kali originated from those artisans.

The only profession that seems to come even close in terms of popularity in Kisumu, in my opinion, is that of boda boda (bicycle and motorcycle taxis). The fees are pretty reasonable too, considering I paid Sh50 for a 1.5km trip on a ‘black mamba’. My rider, who did not seem to tire despite my bulk and the distance covered, explained that Kibuye Market remains active day and night and is one of the oldest and largest in Kenya.

Kisumu’s main market, on the other hand, specialises in kikoi, kanga, and batik textiles. My rider was also kind enough to intimate that I was in luck as a Luo Night Festival was ‘happening’ that night. Now, ethnic-themed nights are the norm in Nairobi, but this was the inaugural festival where top Luo stars would share a stage on home soil so this was understandably a big deal.

Before I could enjoy this highlight, however, a visit to the Impala sanctuary about three kilometres  from the town centre and branded ‘a lakeshore walk with impalas’ came highly recommended.

The sanctuary in the Dunga neighbourhood covering a little under half a square kilometre was gazetted in 1992 as a holding point for a number of captured problem animals.

It serves as a grazing ground for hippos and as a natural habitat for numerous small mammals, birds and reptiles.

After taking some pictures of the resident zebra as the waters turned shimmering gold by the setting sun, it was time for a relaxing drink at the serene Kisumu Yacht Club. Then it was time to shake a leg at the festival as John Junior, Emma Jalamo, Prezda bandason, and the sensational Tony Nyadundo shone in front of the biggest concert crowd I have seen.