Fish from China and Uganda vie for appetising Kisumu market

It is about 9am and a group of women are waiting patiently as a truck makes its way to a makeshift open-air market on the Kisumu-Kakamega road.

The mood quickly changes the moment the truck stops and its doors open. The women, baskets in hand, shove, some falling on the ground, as they rush to pick the best of the fish from Uganda.

Within moments, a weighing scale is set up as the traders fill their baskets from the truck. This has become a daily routine.

The fish include the sizes that fishermen are banned from harvesting in Uganda, but still find their way into the Kenyan market.

The Ugandan fish has now infiltrated the market in Kisumu, where fish from China is also common.

Ironically, Kisumu borders Lake Victoria, where Ugandans fish with relish. But fishing on the Kenyan side has steadily declined over dwindling stocks due to overfishing and pollution. Not even the introduction of fish cages has helped.

Next to the Patel flats, the temporary market dealing only in Ugandan fish is flourishing. 

Several tons of fish from Uganda find their way to Kisumu daily.

Ugandan and Kenyan traders keen on countering exports from China have intensified their efforts to take over the market.

The stocks are kept in refrigerated trucks while others are transported in sacks after being smuggled through the porous borders in Busia.

Some are repackaged in Busia and then disguised as fish from Siaya to evade taxes. But what amazes is that the open-air market thrives despite its illegality.

However, authorities have defended the trade, saying the demand for fish is high in Kisumu and its environs, which has led to the entry of new supplies from Uganda and China.?

They claim that the suppliers comply with set regulations, including getting necessary licences. 

“The fish deficit is huge. There is no cause for alarm because our own players have not complained that they are threatened. We will tighten regulations the moment Beach Management Units complain that they can no longer sell their fish because of competition,” said County Executive member for Agriculture and Fisheries Owuor Okuom.

Multiple agencies, including the Department of Health, have been inspecting the fish from Uganda and China to ensure that they are safe for consumption.

“We are in the process of revamping our own fisheries and our focus is now on aquaculture to boost fish production to help plug the deficit,” he said.

His Trade counterpart Nickson Obungu said they issued the traders with permits after meeting all the requirements.

In Kisumu’s industrial area, a number of companies that import fish from China have been operating for more than two years.

One of the Ugandan traders claims that their fish is natural and fresh from the lake. “It tastes better. We are keen to take over the market from the Chinese fish,” he said.

The narrative, however, changed when he was asked about the underage fish considered illegal in Uganda are finding their way into the Kenyan market.

“The fish is from fish ponds in Uganda that is why we have even those that are tiny,” said the trader.

Interviews with Ugandan traders established that about 20 tons of fish enter the Kenyan market every day. Only a small percentage pass through the official border at Busia.

So lucrative is the business that the cartels that operate at the border have hired several motorcyclists, who use illegal routes to ferry the fish to trucks parked in bushes.

But for the fishmongers, the Ugandan fish has provided the hope of making a livelihood.

Eunice Adhiambo said she used to sell fish from China but has now shifted to the supplies from Uganda.

“The fish is always fresh and they are not as expensive as the ones sold on the Kisumu beaches,” she said.

Another trader added: “We have been travelling up to Usenge in Siaya to get fish, but there are times we come back empty-handed because the catch is low. The Ugandans are a blessing to us.”

At the temporary market, a kilo of tilapia goes for about Sh300, but those buying in bulk get better prices.