Lion’s Bluff Lodge is pride of community

The LUMO Community Wildlife Sanctuary in Taita-Taveta is a perfect getaway from the hustle and bustle of the concrete jungle. It is spread over 40,000 square kilometres and the secluded Lion’s Bluff Lodge therein offers an idyllic setting to recharge the mind, body and soul

The community-owned Lion’s Bluff is perched atop a ridge overlooking the scenic acacia-studded savannah, designed to blend in with the natural surroundings.

It is fully solar-powered and water is recycled into nearby pools which act as drinking holes for thirsty wildlife and birds.

To get to the lodge, we travelled 50 kilometres west from the Voi turn off into rural Taita. Once in the sanctuary, our vehicle inched higher along the spine of the ridge toward the lodge.

We were flanked by a graveyard of trees — a forest of acacias that had been destroyed by elephants.

Silence Was Breathtaking

We soon discovered that a herd of the big-eared pachyderms were right round the corner, as though welcoming us to their territory.

Our vehicle came to a stop in the midst of the gentle giants and we watched them move in slow motion.

The silence was breathtaking, interrupted only by bird calls and the sluggish movement of the elephants breaking twigs as they moved about the brush. One of the rangers warned us not to go wandering about alone...the possibility of bumping into a hungry lion or a defensive troop of elephants was not too remote.

Upon arrival, we were met by the manager of the lodge, Ian Licke, and his warm mannered staff who handed us fruit juice and refreshing cold towels. I felt an immediate sense of harmony as I walked on the wooden panels from the reception to the lounge area, and onto the terrace.

Across the terrace is the dining area with massive windows which allow guests to gaze at the rolling Taita Hills.

On top of the world

The rustic interior of Lion’s Bluff complemented the simple architecture of wild olive wood and galana stone.

The lodge’s 14 makuti-roofed luxury safari tents hung carefully off the west edge of the bluff.

Stepping out onto the balcony gave one the surreal feeling of standing on top of the world. In the wee hours the clouds hung low, nearly hugging the ground.

One had the option of participating in an early morning yoga session, sleeping in through the morning chill or going out on a game drive while wrapped in a Maasai blanket.

During a game drive, we learnt that the area was an ancient elephant migratory route and breeding ground for lions.

Indeed, we saw elephants in plenty, their hides the same colour as the red soil. We also went to Lion Rock, a popular spot for lion sighting, and we glipmsed a lioness and her cubs among the rocks. In the evening, Mount Kilimanjaro became visible to the west. We would sit on the terrace sipping sundowners, transfixed on Kilimanjaro’s iconic snow-capped peaks until darkness descended and dinner beckoned.

In the distance, there was the incessant giggling of a pack of hyenas and the occasional roar of lions.

The LUMO Community Wildlife Sanctuary is at the forefront of a tourism revolution, as it is run by the community and not by a private entity.

The lodge makes a significant contribution to the LUMO community.

Provide books

It buys learning materials for pupils attending three schools in the area and provides books for the local libraries. 

The lodge also runs a game spotting competition called Eye Go Game Spotting (EGGS) where teams pay to compete and spot as many species of animals as possible in 30 hours. All proceeds go to the LUMO Sanctuary to help run various community projects. 

Licke says different tourism models must be adapted for it to be sustainable.

For instance self-catering accommodation would be cheaper.

Camping safaris that involve local communities are also an option — they can cater for the needs of holiday makers but also create sustainable livelihoods for local communities.

Our stay was concluded with a delicious breakfast in the bush.

As we left the rugged lifestyle behind, we agreed that there is very little about Lion’s Bluff that can be said. It has to be experienced!