Kenya, I Love You

Kenya: There is no denying that Kenya’s tourism industry has been experiencing a slump, thanks partly to events both beyond Kenya’s borders. Some of the that have happened within  Kenyan have seen foreign governments issue adverse travel advisories that have kept new tourists away.

Others who have been visiting Kenya for years, have stopped coming. However, there are the die-hard lovers of Kenya — the rarest of the rare who who have fallen in love with Kenya, and come what may, they never shy away.

One such person 76-year old Isler Hildegaard, a Swiss who started coming to Kenya when she was in her mid 30s.

It was love at first sight, when Isler and her sister set foot on Kenyan soil in 1971.

So much is her love for Kenya that she has written on her Will that when she passes on, her ashes are to be sprinkled around a tree she planted in Amboseli National Park.

“I love Kenya. When I am here, I feel at home,” she said in Nairobi early this week. “The people are very friendly and we have become friends. I have even invited my friend Herman Mwasaghna, the manager of Serena Amboseli Lodge and his wife to visit me in Switzerland a few years ago.

Fondly referred to as Serena Sisters, the Hildegaards’ brother shares a name with Herman.

500 nights in kenya

“When he introduced himself to us, we told him that our brother is called Herman and he said ‘so you are my sisters’. That is how the name Serena Sisters was born,” Isler says.

Since 1971, the sisters have visited Kenya and Tanzania, every year, sometimes twice a year. Each time, their stay would last about a month.

She has since stayed in Kenya alone for a total of 500 nights. This year she is scheduled to spend a total of 34 days between Kenya and Tanzania, though three quarter of her stay is always in Kenya.

“I have seen how game drives in Kenya have changed over time. Initially, it was hard to see wild animals as they would run away from vehicles. Hunting was still allowed then. But when Kenya stopped game hunting, it became easier to see wild animals, with each trip springing a pleasant surprise.”

It is amazing how for the 43 years she has been visiting, she has used only three tour guides, the first two have since died. Her current guide, Shaffie Musa who doubles as a cameraman, has been her Kenyan guide for six years.

Even then, she has specific facilities she uses in Kenya, down to the finer details like the room number, her favourite breakfast, lunch and dinner spots in the garden or restaurants.

“I am the one who goes on game safari with her, and takes photos for her when she cannot do so,” Shaffie says. “She bought me a camera that looks exactly like the one she has, and whenever she upgrades, I also get an upgrade. It is always just the two of us in the car and we are now good friends.”

Very beautiful view

The camera flash is not used when her photographs are taken and incase there isn’t enough natural light, she does not take photographs.

Her sister, who is eleven years older, has not joined her for safari for over six years now, due to her deteriorating health.

However, the Serena Sisters have already booked a Kenya-only safari for next year which is in tribute to her elder sister who is 87.

Her current safari will see her visit Nanyuki, Nakuru, Elementaita, Maasai Mara then cross over to border to Tanzania’s Serengeti and Ngorongoro. She will then travel back to Kenya, to Salt Lick in Tsavo West then to Central Tsavo. All her trips end at Amboseli Serena.

“Amboseli is very special for my sister and I. I remember in 2005, when Amboseli National Park was handed over to the community, we were the only guests at the event,” she says, smiling, and adds that she always tells Kenyans that “even if Tanzania claimed all the business related to Mt Kilimanjaro, Kenya still has the best view of the mountain. I love to wake up to the view from Kenya. Very beautiful.”

Every year, she brings various gift items, bearing the name Serena Sisters, for her Kenyan friends.

During the interview, she gave yours truly a pen with her name and country printed underneath her nickname.

Because she has flown Swiss Air so many times, she is now a Platinum member, and most of her travels are free of direct costs.

She is an artist painter, but has had to work as a financial officer in a state corporation to support her passion.

She has also served in the army, in addition to being a high court judge for six years.

“Kenyans are very hospitable, and every year the animals are less shy,” she says.