By Thorn Muli
We are all familiar with ‘recycling’, ‘reforestation’, ‘renewable energy’ and ‘waste management’, 21st Century terms synonymous with attempts to rein in pollution and global warming.
While campaigns brandishing these buzzwords have been effective in creating awareness, doubt lurks around their actual impact in convincing people to adopt these ideals. For instance, how many service providers in the hospitality industry engage in responsible, sustainable tourism, or does the environment always have to play the role of expendable pawn in the battle for a greener bottom line?
Not everyone is a villain though. I learnt this during an attitude-challenging visit to a lodge that preaches water and saves it.
A clear morning, a warm break from the overcast cover plaguing the country, marks the beginning of our one-and-a-half-hour journey to the northwest of Nairobi. Our guide is Dominic Loponu, whose passion for birdlife is unrivalled. He even has a birdcall for a ringtone.
Scenic drive
From Waiyaki Way, we make a left turn at the Rironi junction, onto the old Nairobi-Naivasha Road. The Acacia trees stretching out as far as the eye can see in the Kedong Valley, along with glimpses of Mount Longonot’s magma-carved ridges, make the nine-kilometre escarpment route one of the best archetypal snapshots of the Kenyan landscape.
Our next stop is the stunning end to a scenic trip. Located between Naivasha and Gilgil towns is Kigio Wildlife Conservancy. An arresting signboard welcomes us into the 3,500 -acre protected area, formerly a cattle ranch, where riverine and euphorbia woodlands thrive, interspersed with short grass and leleshwa shrubs.
Varied fauna, including a rainbow of birds, buffalo, antelopes, hippos, hyaenas and leopards augment the biodiversity. However, it is the presence of the endangered Rothschild giraffe, sometimes referred to as the Baringo or Ugandan giraffe, which makes Kigio truly special.
Named after zoologist Walter Rothschild, who was the first to describe the sub-species that has five horns instead of two, the Rothschild giraffe has seen tough times, with fewer than 670 individuals remaining in the wild. These are found only in Uganda and Kenya, and a stable population of at least 30 has a home in Kigio.
Recycled marvels
The rains provide a bonding moment when our vehicle gets stuck in the mud a few kilometres into the sanctuary. Most of us have packed gumboots as advised by our host, sales manager, Joan Njathi, so we push the vehicle out as the giraffes peer at us.
Newly opened Kigio Wildlife Camp, a sister establishment to Malewa Wildlife Lodge, set some distance away, is our final stop. It turns out that Kigio is Kikuyu for ‘cuss’, a fact that we poke fun at as we are served drinks by the welcome party.
The camp is stunningly original. All structures are made of as little alien material as possible, and, where possible, recycled material is preferred. Even the welcome notes are made from giraffe droppings.
George Njoroge, the resident naturalist, tells us that, to reduce the carbon footprint, no more than a bag of cement was used for each structure. The timber is re-used from the Malewa Lodge, and locally available grass forms unbelievably neat thatch.
The main building hosting the lobby and dining area is in a glade with a view of a towering red cliff in which bee-eaters nest. Our lunch table is set on a deck that extends to the banks of the Malewa River, creating a dreamy feel.
Grass baskets, wall hangings and mats illuminated in soft light guarantee a warm ambience that extends to the 12 suites.
Life at Kigio can be a challenge for those, like us, used to wasteful city life. Even with a permanent river on the property, we are instructed to use water efficiently. Drinking water is refilled at the reception to ensure that plastic waste is minimal.
After freshening up, we go for a nature walk, guided by George. Not even the persistent drizzle can keep us away. Afterwards, we meet David Van Tonder and Shirley Baronet, the lodge’s managers, at the luxurious Malewa Lodge.
Even though the rain hampers a planned sundowner and night game drive, the fun continues back at camp as the fireplace comes to life for a nyama choma party.
