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Expat talk: My visit to Kenyatta market's hairdressers

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I travel often through Mbagathi to the other side of town. Mbagathi Road is one long stretch that manufacturers of hair products have found to be strategically ideal for advertisement. I do not know when the billboards were mounted. Nevertheless, I find myself looking forward to seeing the hairstyles being showcased by companies specialising in synthetic hair for weaving and braiding. They have smartly branded a section of the roadway near Kenyatta Market, where you can find the products and about three stylists to work on your hair at one go. Now that is some excellent branding synergy.

When it comes to their nails, hair and clothes, women mainly depend on referrals. If we see someone in a nice outfit, we will not hesitate to ask where she got the beautiful dress. In my case, I came across this woman with such beautiful braids. In Rwanda, we called them morro morro - each individual braid was actually a two-strand twist. It is common knowledge amongst women that the best hairbraiders are found in the most economically-challenged parts of town.

I had never been to Kenyatta Market, because I usually organised for the braiders to do my hair at home. But this particular day, I decided to sample a more authentic experience. After beating back the bevy of women selling their braiding services at the market’s entrance, I found a rundown stall that was situated in the middle of a braiding haven. Every stall had a client with five women pulling, tugging and twisting her hair. I found my referred stall. It had a few posters, a tiny sink and a number of ladies waiting their turn.

I perched on a stool and just bid my time. The hustle was real under a scorching sun with vendors hawking just about everything. I was extremely uncomfortable but this is the pain of beauty. It is what it takes for a true experience of getting one’s hair braided in Africa.

After a few hours and what felt like a broken back, I was looking fab for only Sh2,000, significantly less than what I would have paid to have my hair done in the comfort of my home, watching TV and sipping a cappuccino. But in my home, I can’t feel the energy of a market that reminds you that you are in Africa.

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